西风古道、黄沙漫漫,塞上牛羊空许约[组图]

去宁夏,来的突然,行的匆忙,走的仓促。西风古道、黄沙漫漫,那一刻的时光,比昙花还短促,穿了过去,呼啸而来,而那些风景,我走过了,回来了,却就此镌刻心底,片刻成永恒。一万年太漫长,五百年经不起轮回,此生,足矣。

2007.10 我的大话圣地行

有些风景在路上,有些风景就只在心中


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一切,从这里开始

宁夏西部镇北堡影视城,这个位于银川市区西北38公里处的古城遗址,高天流云,黄沙漫漫,背依莽苍贺兰山阕,观山色空葱;面朝千古黄河,残墙独立;忽然而天,忽然而地,忽然悲凉,忽然窃喜。很多年前,在它附近南梁农场劳动改造的张贤亮来此赶集,当他穿过位于古堡北边的胡杨林,远远地就被立于旷野之上的古堡震撼了,那种在没有太阳时都是苍黄一片孤独的凹凸不平,却又那般不屈不挠,让当时身处困境的他深深感受到黄土地顽强的生命力。这种震撼一直延续到上个世纪八十年代,被他写进小说里。之后随着乱世平定,人们从他笔下知晓还有这般古堡,而已身为作家的他也适时喊出“出卖荒凉”的口号,将此间的断壁残垣, 配上大漠孤烟,长河落日,再加上那些残败的屋舍和废弃的城楼,统统打包,因地制宜, 创造出不同于其他任何景点的美。于是张艺谋来了、谢晋来了,王家卫来了、徐克来了,于是有了《牧马人》《红高梁》、《五魁》,也有了《东邪西毒》《大话西游》、《新龙门客栈》。这是风景馈赠给影视城没有历史的苍凉,也是喜好电影的人们的幸运。

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这一南一北的两座城堡,靠公路边的俗称“老堡”,它建于明代弘治(明朝第九个皇帝明孝宗朱佑樘)十三年(公元1500年),为宁夏右屯所领的18屯堡之一,是防御被赶出中原的残元势力入侵的西北军事要塞。在清代被地震摧毁(我们现在看到的都是后世重修的),多称之为“明城。”


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在老堡的东北边的城堡,俗称“新堡”,也称之为“清城”,它是在“老堡”震毁约两年后的清乾隆五年(公元1740年)修建而成。这种古堡当地俗称“土围攻子”,是我国西北地区特有的覆土建筑,城堡墙体没有一块砖石,完全用糯米粘黄土夯筑而成,经过数百年的岁月风霜,人为破坏,雄姿仍依稀可辨。

远处,即是巍巍莽苍贺兰山


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春三十娘自大漠风尘仆仆而来,手持桃花独倚门框处
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姜文当年就是在这里唱着妹妹你大胆的往前走,“娘,娘,上西南,宽宽的大路长长的宝船。。。”

春三十娘也正是在此找寻着脚底板有三颗痣的转世悟空


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三不澡堂,三十娘洗去满身风尘的地方

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头顶正上方悬空的就是当年花费十一万设计的恐怖蜘蛛精

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华丽丽地牛魔王娶亲场

我的意中人是个盖世英雄,有一天他会踩着七色的云彩来娶我

我望眼欲穿,你立地成佛

我猜不透,猜不透


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盘丝洞(原来它实际高不过两米)

它的前生是水帘洞,来世是菩提洞,却独独不是盘丝洞

一个人的心最后就变得像这洞口,洞里洞外都看得通透,终于再没有什么让谁为谁泪水滔滔不绝,爱恨嗔痴,终于无怨无痕。

大话最后,带上金箍的至尊宝站在洞口,回望那沥尽沧海滴泪的一眼,自以为永远不会忘记的人和事终于还是被忘记。

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整体而言,明城的景点相对集中,

站在这些曾经诞生出无数经典电影,留下众多影人足迹的地方,每个角落都似曾相识


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欧阳锋当年远眺的凉亭
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龙门客栈,明城里最为豪华的建筑(不过只是图有其表)

1992年,徐克以其天马行空的想像力和对武侠世界独有的浪漫与投入翻拍而成的新龙门客栈是在东邪西毒之前我最喜欢的故事

当年张曼玉就是在此浅笑盈盈,绮年花貌,何等的风情万种。龙门客栈里来去的男人都逃不过她金镶玉的温柔一刀,人心锋利如刀的争斗,也消磨不了她的如花笑靥


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每个故事的开始总是灿烂如花

每个故事的结束都是沉默如土

就让时间的沙把我掩埋

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那日你说“曾经有一份真诚的爱情放在我面前,我没有珍惜,等到失去的时候我才后悔莫及,人世间最痛苦的事莫过于此,”
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西夏,这个我国历史上唯一也是最后以党项族为主体建立的王朝,没有哪个王朝比他更令人可悲可叹,也没有哪个民族如他一样迅速消亡,只留下一个又一个无解的谜团。我们只能依寻残存碑文上刀枪剑戟一般消瘦傲骨的文字和拼凑复制的文物,一点点猜测想像着曾经的西夏文明
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当年蒙古军队在这里是做过最细致认真的焚烧和砸毁,居然还能在地表上留下如此的痕迹,这不能不更让人嗟叹。
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