凤凰 ---- 沈从文先生墓

一生负气成今日,四海无人对夕阳
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湘西凤凰。清晨,当炊烟飘在陀江上,古城真的有传说中的美丽......
 

沈从文先生的墓地,在城东听涛山。


听涛山在沱江之畔。旅游攻略上说,从古城东门城楼外的虹桥前,沿江下行3里路,就到听涛山了。其实在沱江泛舟之际,看准地方登岸爬山更简单。


去往墓地的山路上,有一家书店,出售沈大师的作品。当然也有黄永玉的图书。还有几种古城明信片,极有特色,加盖老板娘亲自设计的各种古迹邮戳。一个没忍住,下山时我也来了两套:)



快到墓地了,先看见有黎元洪的题壁:兴废周知”。


还有画家黄永玉的碑文:一个士兵不是战死沙场,便是回到故乡”。一下就有了渐臻化境的味道


来沈大师墓地探访的文艺青年还真不少


墓地旁边的鸡,很野,能飞檐走壁。还有鹅,特白,让人想到一个词:“自然”。



墓地建在一块不大的草坪上,没有坟冢,只竖了一块6吨多重的五彩石,石正面镌刻的是沈先生手迹:照我思索,能理解我;照我思索,可认识人。


大石背面是沈从文姨妹张充和的撰联:不折不从,亦慈亦让;星斗其文,赤子其人。句尾连起来是从文让人”四字,頗和沈大师谦卑诚拙的性格。


这块石碑上说,沈从文的夫人张兆和后来跟他合葬于此。张兆和女士可是我们姑苏人氏。


沈从文曾道:我和我的读者都行将老去。” 好不伤感!那么到底什么会永恒呢?那些如水的文字?读者的忠诚?还是有人在石头前留下的花环蔬果?


坟石边的这个凳子让我想起了西雅图,涅磐乐队(Nirvana)主唱Kurt Cobain故居前的草坪,不大,没有坟冢,也有类似的长条木凳,上面刻满了歌迷的名字。相似的气氛,似乎诉说着他们灵魂最深处的孤寂、恐惧、脆弱和温柔感性……


多少问题没有答案,多少记忆充满忧伤?此时,沱江上最后一缕夕阳,投射到水中嬉戏的人们身上......

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