腾冲侨乡和顺(一)

人生的这段旅途,我愿为美而行。
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       和顺, 600年历史孕育而成的当今中国第一魅力名镇,民国代总理李根源有诗赞:“绝胜小苏杭”,古人徐霞客称之为“极边第一城”。

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        这里的居民以内地迁来的汉民族为主。长期以来,中印缅之间通过西南丝绸古道进行国际贸易、文化、外交、军事、宗教的交流,和顺是这条古道上的枢纽,1894年就 有了海关、领事 馆,1911年就有了银行。
 
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        和顺,古名阳温暾,因境内有一条小河绕村而过,更名“河顺”,后取“士和民顺”之意,雅化为和顺乡。 中国的历史名城多与水有缘,和顺的水是那条因人行其中极易陷入而被和顺人形象地称之为“陷”的河。
 
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        我走进了这个依山傍水位于腾冲城西3公里的村庄时是初春三月,和顺桃红柳绿,属于湿地的陷河水草丰茂,野鸭水鸟嬉戏其间,一派高原水乡的恬美风光。和顺游子有词云“家乡好,最好陷河头,绿柳丛中穿紫燕,红莲塘畔卧青牛,结伴泛孤舟。”

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        两座石拱桥跨河而建,形似双虹卧波,故名双虹桥,据传建于清道光年间。

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        出国“走夷方”的和顺前辈为了家乡妇女洗衣有个遮风避雨的地方,从清光绪年间开始,逐步沿河修建了6座形态各异的洗衣亭,是和顺最独特、最温柔的公益建筑。

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        我驻足水边,看着这世外桃源里的老妇不慌不忙地捶打着衣裳,那“嘭嘭”声让我身心放松,都市生活的紧张忙碌恍若隔世。
 
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