带着女儿游欧洲(10):大卫雕像•诗人但丁•大比萨饼

Amazon专栏作家 http://www.amazon.com/Jennifer-Fu/e/B004Y218FQ
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知道谁是文艺复兴三杰吗?米开朗基罗、达芬奇和拉斐尔。

三个人之中谁最伟大?这自然很难说了,青菜萝卜各有所好。但是佛罗伦萨的选择是不言而喻的,米开朗基罗是一位伟大的雕塑家、建筑师、画家和诗人,在佛罗伦萨有着举足轻重的位置。光他的大卫雕像就有三座,原作收藏于佛罗伦萨国立美术学院(Galleria dell'Accademia),上次带儿子游欧洲时看了。这次是自选项目,因为参加的人数不够而被取消。当然啦,有免费的复制品可看,就没有那么多人愿意付费看真品了。

第一个仿作位于米开朗琪罗广场(Piazzale Michelangelo),是一座青铜的人体雕像,健美的肌肉赤裸裸地展现着,正处于敏感期的女儿羞得正眼也不敢瞧。

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第二个仿作位于维琪奥王宫(Palazzo Vecchio)的门口左侧。

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维琪奥王宫也叫做旧宫,现在是佛罗伦萨的市政厅宫前是佛罗伦萨最热闹的西纽利亚广场(Plazza della Signoria),那里有许多古代及文艺复兴式样的大理石人物雕像。

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维琪奥王宫里面的装饰与壁画也独具特色。

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乌菲兹美术馆(Galleria degli Uffizi)是佛罗伦萨历史最悠久的艺术博物馆。

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维琪奥桥(Ponte Vecchio)也叫做旧桥,是佛罗伦萨最古老的桥梁。桥下的阿尔诺河(Arno River)上正举行划船比赛耶。

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达芬奇住过的房子,据说他那时已经开始创作蒙娜丽莎,只可惜他将许多作品带到了巴黎,并且永远地留在了那里。

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圣十字大殿(Basilica di Santa Croce)是座大教堂,里面安葬了许多名人,例如但丁、米开朗琪罗、伽利略、马基雅维利、罗西尼和马可尼,因而被称为意大利的先贤祠。圣十字大殿门前的雕像是大诗人但丁。

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在但丁的有生之年,他被驱逐出佛罗伦萨,成为一个不受欢迎的人。在但丁去世之后,他的遗体被请回佛罗伦萨,竟被他的出生地奉为神明。

这是但丁曾经的居所。

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这是地上的但丁像,洒了水之后看得比较清楚。

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但丁的《神曲》是世界上最重要的文学作品之一。他以第一人称记述自己35岁时(人生的中途),误入一座黑暗的森林(象征罪恶)。在一座小山脚下,有三只猛兽拦住去路,一只母狼(象征贪欲),一只狮子(象征野心),以及一头豹(象征逸乐),又一种说法是说它们分别象征教皇、法国国王和佛罗伦萨人。在他呼救时,出现了古罗马诗人维吉尔的灵魂,对他说:“你不能战胜这三只野兽,我指示你另一条路径。” 维吉尔带领他穿过地狱、炼狱,然后把他交给昔日情人贝阿特丽切的灵魂,带他游历天堂,一直到见到上帝。

贝阿特丽切住过的地方,当年但丁单相思暗恋她时,在这个小黑屋檐下望眼欲穿了吧。

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百花圣母大教堂(Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore)是文艺复兴时期的杰作,世界上庄严雄伟的教堂很多,但很少有教堂能如此妩媚。这座用白、红、绿三色大理石建造的教堂将文艺复兴时代所推崇的古典、优雅、自由诠释得淋漓尽致。

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百花圣母大教堂原址是建于4世纪的圣·雷帕拉塔教堂。1296年,乔凡尼·美第奇出资建造新的教堂,花了175年时间才最终建成。教堂由阿诺福·迪坎比奥(Arnorfo di Cambio)负责建造,布鲁涅内斯基(Brunelleschi)设计了中央巨大的圆顶,这个圆顶是古典艺术与当时科学的完美结合,连教皇也惊叹其象神话一般,一位音乐家专门为它作了一首协奏曲,后来米开朗基罗也感叹:“圣彼得大教堂可以建得比它大,却不可能比它美”。

圆顶内部是瓦萨里所绘制的穹顶画《末日审判》。

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阿诺福·迪坎比奥与布鲁涅内斯基的雕像。

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百花圣母大教堂边上的乔托钟楼。

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圣乔凡尼礼拜堂(Battistero di San Giovanni)是百花圣母大教堂对面的八角形教堂,建于5世纪到8世纪之间,是托斯坎尼地区罗马式建筑的代表。礼拜堂有三面青铜门浮雕,入口处南侧的青铜门是由安德烈.比萨诺于1330年制作的,28张图样是关于约翰传教的故事。那时的建筑师的自由度比较大,在金碧辉煌的浮雕旁边,比萨诺父子将自己的头像刻上,与青铜门一起流芳百世。

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读到这儿,你对佛罗伦萨有点印象了吧,在下面的全景图中你能找出几个地标?维琪奥桥?维琪奥王宫?百花圣母大教堂?

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我们当天晚上吃比萨饼,意大利的比萨饼与美国的不同:皮薄奶酪少。每人一个大比萨,一杯饮料,15欧,导游的安排还不错吧。

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女儿日记

17 day trip – day 11

Driving: four out of five

There's a new bus driver today! Under European law, if you work 10 days in a row, then you have to take a 3-day rest. The driving was pretty smooth, and the scenery was very good. I slept through most of it, though.

Florence: five out of five

Florence is a very big city. Even though it's so big, though, tourists outnumber natives! The local people say that we are like sand on a beach – everywhere. There are 3 main squares in Florence. Each has at least one church. One church is very big. It was originally built to be the biggest church of that time, but about ¼ through, they learned that another city was building an even bigger church! They decided to enlarge their current design. Now, the church is only 3rd biggest, but they are still happy because their church is bigger than the other city's church. I ate some gelato ice cream (again). Another place I visited was the Old Palace. The native people have a story about it. One of the rulers there married a woman who had 7 attributes, and one of them was intelligence. When she went to the palace, every day she had headaches. The ruler soon got them too. He asked why, and she said it was because the palace was too claustrophobic. They got a new palace (called New Palace) and the headaches stopped. Soon, though, women all over Florence started getting headaches, too! I only saw the Old Palace. After that, I went to a square full of statues. One of them was a replica of David. About 2/3 were naked. (Sad face!!!!)

Right now, I'm staying in Rome. Don't forget to read my next reviews!

P.S. Holiday Inn is a very good hotel.

P.S.S. Beware of pickpockets if you decide to go to Florence.

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