走进冰岛之秋(一)

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【走进冰岛之秋(一)】

芝加哥的校友邀约冰岛游。选在夏秋季,舍本地浓郁的山野湖光去他乡观光,先是踌躇。校友交待自驾游她己策划了一年,将是一个完美的冰岛体验,——这话极有吸引力!对我来说,度假如不能体力放松,也盼有清风吹进脑回的爽新;此游好像我只需轮着开开车,一切计划朋友全提前操了心。又何况,冰岛听上去天寒地冻的地方,也只能在暖季舍弃一段家中的安适。有道是“旅游其实是花钱去看别人的后院”,除非已没有一点好奇心。

冰岛位于北大西洋,座落在欧亚大陆板块和北美板块的裂隙上,薄弱的地质条件是火山喷发活动的热点。深处的熔岩经上亿年地喷涌加厚,地势高出海面千米,加上顶部的冰川可高至二千多米。在极久远的地球冰河时期,高原上厚重的雪年复一年叠压出了冰川层。当地球变温暖的时候,这些冰川层逐渐融化,演变出了数不尽的瀑布,山涧溪流。冻蚀的山岩砂化,表层土壤化,很适合草丛小灌木生长,但肥沃程度兴许不够支付大型植被的需要。这粗线条的勾画,没去过的人也可以大致推断出它的景观特征了。

从北纬45度的芝加哥飞到65度压及北极圈的冰岛温度应该有个陡降,其实不然。受北大西洋水温的缓冲调济,小岛四季的温度也就波动在摄氏零下一两度到零上十七八度范围,暗自称奇。事先校友发了些人文地理的资料推荐预览,我忙于完成手头的工作而忽略了。飞机降落后,我佯装于搬箱、为别人拍照,怕漏马脚。待座进SUV后,象很快进入了有机生活之中,原因是冰岛的语言中英不近类,发音记忆皆难,如文化程度下调近文盲,一切都由带队首长发指令。此状况挑起我一种二年级才有的混沌亲切感。

九天里顺时针绕岛一圈,靠右驾沿路天然景色帧帧新奇险拔,自不在言。此刻逐渐领悟到校友精妙的路线策划;风景点越看越绝,全无疲倦;每晚在牧农庄过夜,起居之便如归家,且伴随或凭海的远观浪涛,或旁山溪而息的享受。无垠的草原,河川,瀑布,玄武石崖,更大的瀑布,海岸陡崖,地沉地裂,冰川,更浩大的冰川……,在下笔拙,试图描述的话恐委屈了山色。说不如摄,摄不如录,录不如不录。第一晚夜空仰望天幕般的极光,啧啧称奇……

9/20/2019 finished in Milwaukee

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