晋北行之三- 华严寺& 浑源永安寺

华严寺,辽代的皇家宗庙,自是气派非凡, 极具契丹人特有的辽阔大气。分上下两寺, 超爱守门的金刚像,怒目圆睁,踏平一切魑魅魍魉。华严宝塔下的地宫也是一绝,是一座由一百余吨黄铜打造的铜殿,精美的壁龛,佛像,从地板到天花,奢美程度令人咋舌。皇家大刹固然让人诚服,但更让我感动的是村口小庙。 不起眼的永安寺,形制营造自然无法比肩,且庙里佛像尽毁。 只因为佛堂被用来做谷仓堆粮而侥幸保留下来一堂壁画。 堂内无照明,须得趁有光照入的那段时间去细细欣赏。 为了镇压作恶的亡灵,菩萨皆显现凶恶像,唯有大日如来不忍,撕开凶恶像,以慈悲像感化恶灵。壁画还用了罕见的堆金法,在灯光的映照下,都是凸起的金粉。由于颜料由矿物粉调色。 怪兽的眼睛会随着阳光照射的角度不同而变色。

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