缅甸七日之二:多少佛塔经诵中

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缅甸之行的第二站是蒲甘,缅甸的名片。蒲甘历史悠久,从9世纪到13世纪,这里曾有过一个蒲甘王国,是后来缅甸的雛型。当时佛教盛行,曾有过一段轰轰烈烈的“造塔运动“。在鼎盛时期,这里有过超过一万座佛教寺庙。Untitled

 

岁月流逝,至今仍有2000多座佛塔屹立在伊洛瓦底江畔Untitled

 

阿南达寺(Ananda Pagoda)里的佛像

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蒲甘最美和最出名的要数日出日落了。每当日出日落时分,蒲甘平原大地上垄罩着一层薄雾,太阳光线柔和,非常之美,有”多少佛塔烟雨中“的诗赞

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黄昏的时候,漫步到佛塔登高思索人生,顺便文艺一下:问斜阳,你既已升起为何沉落;问斜阳,你看过多少悲欢离合;问斜阳, 你为谁发光为谁隐没;问斜阳,你灿烂明亮为何短促。。。(呵呵,琼瑶老阿姨的段子)bagan-sunset-1

 

蒲甘日出常有热气球与太阳一同升空,是一绝美的瞬间,醉了吗? 至少有点晕吧 :-)bagan-sunrise-6573

 

在蒲甘最高可攀登的Shwesandaw塔,翻译为瑞山都塔,又称”许三多塔“观日出。热气球随着雄鸡一唱冉冉升起bagab-sunrise-1

 

在Buledi塔(布勒迪塔),也是传说中的”穷游塔“上迎接早晨的第一道阳光 Untitled

 

面前并排的双塔,令人想起这样的歌词:当太阳升起的时候,我们的爱天长地久。。。 bagan-sunrise-6755

 

再看一眼蒲甘的绝美日落bagan-sunset-6660-2

 

千百年来,虽然历经苍桑,大多佛塔内部已空,但当地人们仍把那些佛塔当作日常佛事场所,整日经诵声声,香火不断

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与吴哥等其他的佛教文明相比,这种延续性在蒲甘及缅甸算是特别的吧 bagan-6630

 

有时甚至想,”修旧如旧“好像更适合文物保护,而蒲甘的佛塔并不只是文物的范畴 bagab-2

 

我曾想像一群蒲甘女孩在柔和的阳光下撑着这样的花伞在镜头里会是什么样子 Untitled

 

她们的眼神会是这么明澈吗? bagab-1

 

笑容会是那般不经修饰吗?

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在蒲甘的一家手工竹器作坊里,我看到了蒲甘最恬静的侧影Untitled

 

蒲甘的千万佛塔于我,不只是游客眼里专家证书中的静止文物,也不是摄影师镜头里的唯美烟雨,而是不经意的代代的信仰传承,是有生命的。在永恒的经诵声中,他们迎来过无数个黎明朝霞,又送走过无数次夕阳余辉。 这,就是蒲甘的魅力。

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下一篇(曼德勒):一起回到曼德勒

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