北国行: Day 6

嬉笑胡诌,猪之谓也。切勿转载,敬请谅解。
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(1) Bye, Rita
    北国之行,除了观山览水,陶醉于自然之外,在山城Jasper,对房东Rita,也印象深刻。

 
    每天早上,我们一边进餐,一边与Rita闲聊。她不仅为 Jasper 国家公园工作,属政府雇员,还做家庭旅店的生意。上有87岁的老母,下有三个孙辈,都在附近另住。平时,家里只有她一人,接待来自世界各地的游客,使她的生活变得丰富多彩。冬季清闲,她便在后院小作坊,自制陶器。
 

    Rita的前夫,是附近城市警局头目,工作体面,薪俸优渥。可有一样,对家庭生活,十分幼稚,似乎永远也长不大。Rita就像他的老妈,为他打理一切。更有甚者,每月花的,比挣的还多。久而久之,Rita实在烦他,终于在20年前,炒了他的鱿鱼。
    从此,Rita拉扯着一儿一女,白手起家。开了一家陶器店,买下了现在这所房子。经过她精心改造装修,原来破旧的百年老屋,焕然一新。如今,两个孩子都长大成家,添了一个孙儿,两个孙女。四世同堂,其乐也融。Rita却闲不来,把经营家庭旅店,当作乐趣。It's so wonderful to meet all the nice people, like you couple, coming from all over the world。
 
 
 
 
    

    离开的那天清晨,房东Rita已为我们预备好早点。据她说,全城有176家B&B家庭旅店。由房东亲自服务早餐的,只有两家。除了牛奶、咖啡、热茶、面包和各种水果,Rita家自制的果酱,非常特别,十分可口。
    是告别的时候了。Rita把我们送出门口,为我们拍照留念。热情拥抱,互道尊重。Bye, Rita。Take care, and wish to see you again in the future!

(2) Icefield Parkway
    离开Jasper,沿93号返回Banff。
    此行天佑,尤须感恩!房东Rita告知,9月份是一年中最美的季节。It's the most colorful season! 虽说在Banff, 个别景点因维护而关闭,观瀑也因水流减量,失之壮观。但有得有失,不足为憾。去Jasper的路上和第二天,烟雨迷漫,山蒙水暗。但接下来几天,暖阳高照,峰峦尽出,湖光如洗。先雨后晴,均得其趣,实为幸矣!
    去Jasper时,因雨错失了一路上许多景点,当时还祈求返程时,老天保佑。果不其然,返回时天气晴好,路上美景如画。远山白雪皑皑,近前流水淙淙。麋鹿夹道,层林尽染。每行半刻,必停车驻足。留连再三,仓促不忍离去。
    有几处胜景,值得一提。Tangle Falls,近在路边。石奇林秀,山静水急。Weeping Wall,石壁连城,拔地而起。水帘掩面,泣珠留客。更有神奇者,一朵白云,高悬蓝天,如天使探视,祝福游人。Peyto湖,一钩碧玉,镶嵌在林海之中。登高远眺,心旷神怡。人情世事,不知为何物焉。
 



(3) Bow Summit
    快离开Jasper国家公园前,临近中午,饥肠辘辘。始见前方路标,已抵宝峰。这里离Banff不远,流经山城Banff的宝河(Bow River),即源发于此。
    减速徐驶,右拐驻车。跳下车来,举目一望,又是好山好水。极目前方,两峰夹一山坳。一条冰川,似玉龙盘卧。下有飞岩怒壑,急流陡溪。仔细观山,虽峰峦有态,攒青簇黛。却风化经年,落碎垒锥。尤在水线上下,雍肿裸露。所谓秀瘦皱透,未得其一也。
    山失耐看,水却堪玩。晴日当空,湖面一望空阔。波色明朗,浪纹耀鳞。晶晶然如鉴之新开,莹莹乎若玉之始成。面湖四顾,天朗气清,恍然若有隔世之感。
 


    傍水信步,有曲径绕岸,小桥流水。土膏微润,植被覆锦。秀草疏斜,浅池落云。远近秋韵浓淡有致,色彩臻趣。离岸一箭之地,几株翠柏,掩映着一栋红顶楼宇,为湖光山色,再添几许妖娆。亦将忘情游人,带回现实人间。
 



    踱进楼宇cafeteria,买了一份热乎乎的肉汤,和着面包、披萨,聊以充饥。饭后继续赶路,就此别过Jasper的山山水水。途经Banff未停,傍晚抵达卡尔加里。次日一早,飞回圣地亚哥,结束这北国之行。登机前,忆起林徽因一一
    一程山水,一双过客。一篇故事,一段人生。
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