吉光片羽话巴黎 - 杜勒丽花园的徘徊

清晨穿过铺着石头的街道和大桥,就到了卢浮宫。一面看过去是骑兵凯旋门和玻璃金字塔,三面环绕着卢浮宫建筑群。另一面是匠气工整的杜勒丽花园,依稀可见远处的协和广场。

我站在一片空旷的砂砾上,两座雕塑孤零零站立两头,遥遥相对。

拆得真干净呀。

有着帝王雄风、奢华辉煌的杜勒丽宫,在1871年的一场烧了几天的大火后,只剩下了外壳。这是巴黎公社失败前最后的疯狂,这只是公社社员要摧毁的旧制度之一。

没人愿意再去修复这君主制和帝制的象征,杜勒丽宫,就这样彻底地从原址上抹去。

消失了的,还有杜勒丽花园尽头协和广场上的断头台,和那些在阳台上数算着落地人头的家庭主妇,那些断头台下等待挑起头颅的嗜血民众……

协和广场因此成为我最提不起兴致拜访的景点,虽然广场上有着货真价实的三千多年的埃及方尖碑。现在那儿还竖起一个只有游乐场才能见到的巨大转盘。不知要怎样镇定的心情,才能不败兴地端坐空中,而脚下,是曾经浸透血污的泥土,有难以合目的冤魂游荡,还有那"自由自由,多少罪恶假汝之名而行?!"的叹息。

经过多少革命暴动、恐怖独裁、帝皇复辟、外族入侵、无政府混乱,多少妥协的斗争、理性的反思,法国人才学会不用激进的暴力解决问题,才终于有了今天第五共和国几十年的平稳繁荣。卢浮宫前悠闲信步的鸽子,新人妩媚娇羞的笑靥,衬得清晨和夜晚的天空越发详和静穆。

而当你迎面撞见身着迷彩服、荷枪实弹的士兵,在警惕地四处巡逻,你就会沮丧地想到,那黑暗中无处不在、蠢蠢欲动地要挑战秩序和文明的魔鬼。

(写于2016.7.14 尼斯遇袭之夜)

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