西非安哥拉首都罗安达北郊海岸有一处废船坟场,当地人称为萨里科海滩。身临其境,如同置身于星球灾难和末日世界。海浪拍击船身,时间慢慢撕碎人类工程杰作,把它们还原回物质原态。这些被人类遗弃的废旧船舶,如一群钢铁巨兽,在喧嚣的海浪中,逐渐面目全非。
西非海岸在潮汐作用下,常年向前延展,蚕食大西洋东界。从安国南部延伸到纳米比亚的纳米布沙漠沿岸(骷髅海岸),几个世纪以来搁浅的海难船残骸,早已被向前推进的海岸线甩在后面,变成沙漠枯骨。潮起潮落,海浪移动浅水海底沙层,使萨里科弃船逐渐陷入水下泥沙中。假以时日,沙滩终将吞噬这些钢铁怪兽。
经过多年风吹浪打,昔日海上钢铁怪兽横卧侧倾、肢离破碎,难免不让人联想历史场景。近的有1940年英法联军敦刻尔克大撤退,当时盟军被击毁的船舰和丢弃的重型武器车辆,遍布海滩; 远的有663年白江口中日海上决战、及1279年明元崖山之役,失败的一方,上千条战船被摧毁,漂浮海上或搁浅于浅滩。
萨里科海滩有近百艘废弃船舶,分布于15公里长海岸线。沿岸经过两三个小渔村。每天清晨渔夫们划着小船出海,穿梭于废船之间,临近中午陆续返回。将渔获在市场上出售,兼取宽扎(本地货币)以养家糊口。生活从不轻松,停止出海,就意味着当天餐桌上食物无以为继。经过多年内战,安哥拉已渐入正轨。安哥拉人生性快乐,尽管还有社会安全教育健康诸多问题,有了这种天性,再困难的问题也解决了一半。
(打击乐版)
清晨离开罗安达,由沿海公路向北驶去。
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经过罗安达港口和码头
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穿过荒野
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三叉路口,沿海公路继续北去,另一条路穿过小镇,直达海滩。
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过了生机勃勃的泻湖,就是萨里科海滩。
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罗安达北郊海滩,时值南半球六月旱(冬)季,游人绝踪。
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到达更北部的萨里科海滩(Praia do Sarico)
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废船坟场延绵海岸15公里,近百艘废弃船舶分布在海水和沙滩中。
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时逢渔民赶早海归来
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被遗弃的钢铁巨兽,在喧嚣的海浪中,逐渐面目全非。
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渔村居民和海货小贩
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尚能看出船鼻首轮廓
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面目全非
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钢铁巨兽和小渔船
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处于涨潮和落潮之间的废弃港务艇
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一对报废的拖网渔船
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已经陷入沙滩,只剩船桅杆肋骨依稀可见。
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翻覆的钢铁巨兽
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西非海岸在潮汐作用下,不断增长。潮起潮落,海浪移动浅水沙层,假以时日,沙滩慢慢吞噬昔日海上钢铁巨兽。
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打渔归来
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分享渔民收获的喜悦
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又回到生机勃勃的泻湖
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