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美西南的亚利桑那犹他是一片很神奇的土地。去那里的国家公园一直在我们的旅行计划中。可是因为恐惧那里炎热的夏日一直耽搁没有去。2020年3月从科罗拉多回来不久就开始了在家工作。总算在一年后打上了疫苗。这期间一大收获是在去年年底买了一个带Ifit的跑步机。每天从早到晚工作之余,跟着教练去世界各地爬山跑步成了我们俩的乐趣。我这个没有运动细胞的人半年中已经运动了300多英里,还在家里爬上了屹力马扎罗山。打完疫苗后就期盼着能真正地出去爬山走道。美西南之旅自然成了首选。
YM同学的计划是飞凤凰城,先去Sedona和亚利桑那的两个国家公园,再去Page的羚羊谷马蹄湾和犹他的五个国家公园。受疫情的影响中间出现了一些小意外。十二天的旅行每天都走了十几英里,还爬上了Angel's Landing。美丽壮观的景色让我们对大自然多了更多的敬畏,脑中不时想起约伯记中的经文“我立大地根基时你在哪里呢?”
按计划我们周二下班后准备叫Uber去机场坐七点多的飞机去凤凰城。可是愣是没有司机响应。幸亏朋友及时赶来把我们送到机场。因为时差到了凤凰城是当地时间八点多,及时赶到商场买了水和午餐干粮。
第一天:Montezuma’s Castle and Sedona
旅程的第一天一早从凤凰城出发往北向Sedona 开,大约两小时车程。中间参观了Montezuma's Castle National Monument 。八百多年前的Sinaguz人在岩壁上凿了二十多个房间,在沙漠中过着依山傍水的生活。
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从Montezuma出发不久就上了被称为红石风景线Red Rock Scenic Byway 的179号州立公路。Sedona 特有的红色山石跃入眼帘。我们一直开到Sedona Chamber of Commerce 去买了停车单,然后直奔网红景点Crescent Moon Picnic Area。这里应该可以看到Cathedral Rock 在Oak Creek 水中的倒影。这个picnic area是要收门票的,进去以后走了一小段看到了Cathedral Rock,很是壮观美丽,在不同的云彩日光下变幻看颜色。可能是水位浅的缘故,我们并没有看到水中的倒影。
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从picnic area出来就看到Red rock loop road的标志。这一路上风景很棒。有些观景点需要停下往里走。我们正好看到一个Pink Jeep带的旅游车,就跟着他们停,找到了一些不易发现的观景点。
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Chapel of the Holy Cross 是在岩石上建立的一个教堂。设计师Maguerite Brunswig Staude 是大建筑家Frank Lloyd Wright 的学生。这个作品和老师Wright 最著名的流水山庄有异曲同工之妙。
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教堂内是耶酥受难像和背后蓝天白云下的红石。耳边是庄重的格里高利圣咏Divine Gregorian Chant 的曲调。静静地坐下感受着长阔高深的宁静。
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教堂外是360度观景台,Sedona 美景尽收眼底。
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中间的石头形似圣母抱着圣婴。
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Sedona 有太多的步道,我们时间有限只选了两个不太长的。第一是Bell Rock钟石。走到这个石头下很快,接着可以继续往上爬。越往上越陡,也不太容易找到合适的路。我们爬了一大半就下来了。回去的时候还走错了路,差点走到另一块石头上。
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紧接着我们又走了3.5英里的Broken Arrow 步道。一路风景壮丽,一些高底盘的吉普车居然也开了上来。
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Airport Mesa 是看日落的最佳地点。
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看完日落才发现很多餐馆都要关门,还有的已经客满了。好不容易找到一家意大利餐厅才不至于饿肚子。
Sedona 有几百英里的步道。以后有机会一定会再来的。
第二天:陨石坑和Petrified Forest 石化林国家公园
第二天我们先沿着89A公路Oak Creek Canyon 风景线开往Flagstaff。这一天本来准备去Slide Rock 州立公园,Walnut Canyon National Monument,Meteor Crater和 Petrified Forest National Park 化石森林国家公园。后来发现这几个地方都是下午五点左右关门。开到最东边的化石森林国家公园要二个多小时。最后我们决定只去Meteor Crater和化石森林。
89A上一路风景壮观。可是没有停下照像的地方。我们最后一天回机场前抽空去了这一路上的Slide Rock 州立公园。公园里河水穿过红石,风景优美,曾经是一些电影的拍摄地。炎热的夏日有很多人来这里游泳。
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风景线的尽头有个观景点,可以一览Oak Creek 峡谷。
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继续往东来到在一片荒漠中的Meteor Crate巴林杰陨石博物馆。这里有5万年前陨石坠落砸出的一个大坑,有旧金山市中心那么大。博物馆有影片介绍科学家是怎么找出大坑的成因,非常神奇。
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我们中午时分赶到石化森林公园。这个公园很大,但主要景点都在贯穿公园的公路两旁。最开始的一段称为Painted Desert彩色沙漠,果然名不虚传。我们在第一观景点就直呼“小伙伴们被惊呆了”。眼前虽然是高低起伏的荒漠,但都被涂上了迷人的粉色,简直是太美了。
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Blue Mesa 是一英里的步道。可以走到badlands 恶地的山角下,思想仓海桑田的变迁。
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紧接着的Crystal Forest 和 Giant Logs步道上有很多硅化的树干,最大的一个有十英尺宽!
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我们终于赶在五点前参观完。从公园的Rainbow Forest Museum 出来开回 Flagstaff。
2021亚利桑那和犹他之五:布莱斯(下),锡安国家公园和雄鹿皮