与好姬友徒步背包露营华盛顿州环雷尼尔山仙境步道The Wonderland Trail - Mount Rainierier。
好姬友从加州打来电话约我一起背包徒步仙境步道The Wonderland Trail,我心虚地答应下来,肚里像挂着十五个吊桶般七上八下:两年前,爬一英里山路都累得死去活来,现在依然菜鸟。徒步向来都是Day Hike,背包重量没超过5磅,从来没露营过!
接下来就是做准备,先置办背包徒步的全套装备。出行前一个星期,将背包里塞个大枕头和2加仑水在Gym走incline treadmill。考虑10天10夜可能无法洗头,我把大波浪发型剃成小平头,进出都戴着紫罗兰色小帽。好姬友见到我,怎么都觉得我顶着小傻帽很不顺眼,便动手掀下来,看到我的头顶立刻尖叫起来,如同见到了鬼一般;我抬手在脑瓢上胡撸一把,头发像野草般竖起来,她马上欢呼称赞,好像我引领了发型时尚。
徒步开始的前一天和完成的那天都住在Paradise Inn。
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我们是Walk in 去申请露营许可证,居然所有营地都有空位,当天把证办下来,然后去 Mowich Lake和White River粮站送食物。
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好姬友对大自然有着超乎寻常的热爱和激情,在室内总是懒得动弹,能躺着就不立着,可一入步道,如同上了发条,立马活蹦乱跳的。一年到头,满世界背包徒步如同赶场子一般连轴转。所以我坚信她是约翰·穆尔John Muir转世。
好姬友背着所有公用物品如帐篷炊具等负重前行,我只背了自己的东西吭吭哧哧往前蹭。有时还要离开仙境步道,走一些著名的day hike trails,总行程100多英里,总爬升高度接近攀登珠穆朗玛峰了。10天10夜,餐风宿露,挤在狭小帐篷里过夜。渴了去湖边打水,饿了吃自带的干粮。有时因食物不足两人还要分食一份的口粮。每天拄着拐杖背着几十斤的行李,翻山越岭艰难地走十几公里的山路去找下一个栖身之地。我爬坡上气不接下气,精疲力竭;下坡筋骨散架,生无可恋。荒山野岭之中,不但受到野兽的威胁,也遭到蚊虫肆虐叮咬。徒步完成后在朋友圈秀照片,居然得到一致称赞,骨头就轻飘起来,觉得自己完成了什么伟大使命似的。
仙境步道就是绕雷尼尔山转一圈,从各个角度看山,“横看成岭侧成峰,远近高低各不同”。雷尼尔山时而看着像馒头,时而像花卷,像肉龙,像糖三角..... (说起来就很饿的样子)
在Emerald Ridge 看Tahoma冰川上覆盖着岩石和红土
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St. Andrew Lake
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Aurora Lake, Kalapache Park
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Golden Lakes 营地
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Spray Park
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Carbon Glacier
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在Fermont Trail上看雷尼尔山
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冰湖Ice Lake
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St. Andrew Lake
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Aurora Lake, Kalapache Park
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Golden Lakes 营地
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Spray Park
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Carbon Glacier
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在Fermont Trail上看雷尼尔山
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冰湖Ice Lake
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Emmons Glacier, White River and Emmons Moraine Lake
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曾经美酒佳肴灯红酒绿,如今两罐啤酒都觉得恍若天堂。在Sunrise游客中心,路人见我们这俩倒霉催落魄成这样,递过来一袋黄瓜几块苹果,我们吃得如珍馐一般
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Summerland
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Golden Trout Lake
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鲜花包围着我们的小窝
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穿过雪原。徒步前查资料发现Summerland 到 Indian Bar有90%的积雪,有人因此而折返,一路上我总是担心,实际上最后连雪爪都没用。
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看到亚当山Mount Adam,像玛芬Muffin
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Snow Lake 营地日出
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Narada Falls
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日落时分在Reflection Lake ,遭遇蚊子狂轰滥炸,手机屏幕上都降落着一个排的蚊子。
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完成仙境步道第二天在Paradise走完Skyline Trail,我回Inn睡午觉。好姬友嫌不过瘾,自己直接上了Muir Camp trail。
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虽然不是夏末野花怒放的季节,但路旁的色彩也十分养眼。(花名不一定准确)
延龄草 印第安画笔 红叶唐松 橙菊 松果
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雪崩百合 金露梅 石楠 虎皮百合 白头翁
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鲁冰花 天蓝绣球 猴花 蓝蓟? 绣线菊
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山茱萸 耧斗菜 防风草 荷包牡丹 火焰花
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西雅图还有我的高中几位同学 ,自然要与她们欢聚。
薰衣草农场Lavandar Farm,Sequim
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Oil Beach
Tacoma Point Difiance Park
Owen's Beach, 雷尼尔山依然可见