瑞士漫游





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瑞士印象







瑞士的山



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瑞士首都伯尔尼的富人区木里镇



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      2001年和2002年,曾在瑞士小住,领略了这个欧洲小国的秀美风光和人文景观。周游过欧洲的一些国家后,私下以为,就旅游观光而言,瑞士无疑是最引人入胜的。



  瑞士地处欧洲腹地的阿尔卑斯山高原地区,国土面积四万多平方公里,人口700多万。据说以前瑞士很穷,资源匮乏,许多瑞士男人靠为别国当雇佣兵,挣钱养家糊口,当然瑞士男子素以英勇善战而闻名。



  到了上世纪初,瑞士走了一条适应自身发展的道路,一跃跻身世界一流的高福利富国。比如,集中了许多科技人才,具有强大的科技创新能力;产业不多,但医药、化工、丝织品、精密仪器、奶制品闻名于世,瑞士钟表、奶酪、雀巢咖啡等行销全世界,据说瑞士企业列世界500强前50位的就有好几个。瑞士奉行中立,多少年来,战火没有烧到瑞士,一直处于建设发展之中。瑞士的金融业保险业异常发达,全世界的许多资金流入瑞士的银行,区区小国,能够吸纳全世界这般多的资金,自然大有可为。



      瑞士的旅游业发达成熟,既得益于“上帝”的眷顾,也在于瑞士人的管理。一眼望去,上面是白雪皑皑的连绵雪峰,中间是墨绿色的森林、森林和淡绿色草坪相间的地带、翠绿的草场,下面是湛蓝的众多湖泊,大大小小的湖泊周围,镶嵌着一个个大城小镇,极具瑞士风格的各种建筑、民居,到处是精致的花园,如果是四月,还有一抹鲜亮的黄,那是成片的油菜花......。




      听在瑞士的资深朋友介绍,瑞士政府非常重视与旅游相关的管理,比如,鼓励种植牧草、油菜等利于观赏的植物,给予可观的补贴;有花园的居民家,必须定期修剪、养护,政府也会给予补贴,反之要处于罚款等等。瑞士的旅游设施安全、便利、人性化。我接触的、看到的瑞士人,普遍举止文明、注重礼仪,外出时经常遇到有车停下来打招呼,询问是否需要搭车。瑞士社会治安良好,2002年夏在瑞士时,曾听朋友说伯尔尼发生一起杀人案,因为很少发生,当地警察缺乏经验,请了奥地利警察来破案......。



木里古树-大橡树



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日内瓦湖喷泉



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著名的阿尔河-来自阿尔卑斯雪山的河




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木里镇附近的狗登山



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瑞士古城墙



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有一点象中国的长城



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瑞士首都伯尔尼







    其实,伯尔尼远不如日内瓦的名声大,但它是瑞士的首都。伯尔尼甚至没有机场,我们是先到苏黎世机场,从苏黎世走高速公路再到伯尔尼。在瑞士的日子里,我们住在伯尔尼郊区的木里镇,去的最多的城市自然就是伯尔尼。



伯尔尼远眺



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流经伯尔尼城的阿尔河



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[



资 料



]



  伯尔尼(Berne)是瑞士的首都,伯尔尼州首府,位于瑞士高原中央山地,莱茵河支流阿勒河在这里流成一个回环。联邦政府与议会设在此处,各国大使馆及一些国际机构聚集于此。伯尔尼旧城就建在河曲半岛上,现已扩大到河的两岸,有7座桥梁把两岸旧城区与东岸新城区连接起来。伯尔尼现有人口 15万。气候温和湿润,冬暖夏凉。




  伯尔尼于公元1191年建城,1848年成为瑞士首都。初建伯尔尼的时候,统治者贝尔托德公爵(Berthodv)突发奇想,决定出城去打猎用猎获的第一只野兽作为城名。结果他首先打到了一头熊,从此伯尔尼的州徽、市徽皆以熊为图案,因而伯尔尼至今仍被称为“熊之城”。它具有中世纪风貌,旧城建筑古朴,街道狭窄。高耸的塔楼、带有走廊的商店和街心竖立的彩色石刻喷泉等都吸引着游客。这座保护完好的古城,已被联合国教科文组织列为世界文化遗产。



  伯尔尼更多程度上只能被称为是一座“玲珑的城市”,而不像其他许多国家的首都那样气势辉煌、规模庞大。作为中立国的瑞士处处让人感受到静谧和安详,而伯尔尼则是这种静谧的最佳体现。精简的结构反映出纯朴的精神,温暖的乡村气息中萦绕着挥之不去的贵族化的高雅韵味,可以说伯尔尼是世界上最美丽的国都,整个城市就是一件玲珑的艺术品。经过了历代巧匠精心制作,那些堂皇的建筑物(中古式、哥德式、巴罗克式)都神妙的彼此依托,恍若一体,非其他任何地方所能企及。 伯尔尼还是瑞士传统钟表业的中心,许多世界名品都诞生于此,这里是欧洲最大的具有中世纪特色的购物区。



“熊城”伯尔尼



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瑞士的城市大多依湖而建,伯尔尼没有湖,但有蓝色的阿尔河穿城而过。



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古色古香的城市,钟楼是它的重要标志



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伯尔尼很闲适,有时街道也成了露天酒吧



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街道中间有许多雕塑,仿佛述说着往日的故事




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伯尔尼街头的建筑



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国家剧院




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赌 场



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议 会



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银 行



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教 堂



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河边的花园



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阿尔河上的桥



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伯尔尼的公共交通非常发达,方便舒适




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街头艺人



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街头排球比赛,临时搭起的观众台




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瑞士注重国防,号称全民皆兵。路遇瑞士军人



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伯尔尼的街道很具欧洲风格,街道两边的过街道,有许多精致的商店。



科学大家爱因斯坦曾在这里生活、工作,取得了“相对论”等重要成果。



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绿色掩映的城市



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马特洪雪峰-阿尔卑斯的象征



 



 



      从伯尔尼出发,赶到策马特镇,已是正午时分,天气格外晴朗,阳光很耀眼。在策马特车站休息片刻后,沿着具有浓厚地方建筑特色的小街,很快就找到缆车站,搭上了上马特洪峰的缆车。



压题片:马特洪峰,海拔4478米




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策马特火车站



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从火车站出来沿着小街,前往缆车站,沿途风景



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[



资 料



]



      马特洪峰位于平原之上,附近没有其他高山争锋,更突出了她简洁的外形和闪亮的冰雪,她就是美的代名词,神圣不可侵犯。在欧洲人的集体记忆中,马特洪峰就是阿尔卑斯的象征。里布法特曾如此形容潜藏在人们心底的那个关于马特洪的梦想:“我从没走出过家乡普罗旺斯,但我知道马特洪峰。读书时,校长有次对我们说,‘现在,画出一座山。’所有学生,不管有意还是无意,统统都画了马特洪峰。”她也因此吸引了数不清的攀登者,他们尝试的过程,其中的失败与成功足以累积成一本关于攀登历史、文化情节、高山梦想的厚重的羊皮书。




终于见到了马特洪峰,一片祥云吸附在峰顶,山峰高耸,很像三角形的鹰咀



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雪峰上流淌下来的溪水



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在缆车上看山野风景



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从缆车出来到雪峰,先经过一个山洞,里面有许多冰雕



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登上了雪峰,从出口处走上了雪地,马特洪峰近在眼前



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雪山风光



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观光台上的十字架



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雪峰上的饭店



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下山途中的风景



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下山了,回到山下小镇策马特




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路遇婚礼



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欧洲之巅-瑞士少女峰



 



 



      第一次上阿尔卑斯雪山,是有“欧洲之巅”美誉的少女峰。国内虽然曾经去过西藏,但欧洲的阿尔卑斯山还是初次。从伯尔尼来到因特拉根后不久,便到了少女峰脚下,清晨的少女峰如此壮美,令人惊艳!坐了带齿轮的火车,又坐缆车、电梯,出了口眼前一亮,已是山巅,少女峰触手可及。




从山脚下看少女峰



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从缆车看雪山



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[



资 料




]



  少女峰于2001年被列入联合国教科文组织的世界遗产名单。



  少女峰(Jungfraujoch)位于瑞士因特拉肯市正南二三十公里处,海拔4158米,差不多是珠穆朗玛峰的一半,是欧洲的最高峰,也是伯尔尼高地最迷人的地方。这里终年积雪,如果天清气朗,极目四望,景象壮丽,毕生难忘,这里有欧洲最高的火车站可直达。少女峰登山铁路本身就是20世纪初年一大工程奇迹。修筑这条铁路用了16年时间,而为了避免滑坡和风雪,路线有相当长的部分是在埃格峰腹地内的隧道中盘旋而上的。



      现在爬山铁路有不同的路线,游客上下山在沿途可从不同角度瞻仰并肩耸立的奇峰峭岭。站在一个名叫埃格格来舍(“格来舍”意为“冰川”)的山间小站上,游客面前就是著名的冰川。火车再从这里开出,要钻一个长7公里的隧道。山间景色随着季节变化而变化:夏日雪融,便露出覆盖坚冰的石砾;早冬降雪,又把山坡变成玉白,愈发娇艳。火车还在两个小站稍停,乘客可以下车,通过凿石而成的“景窗”,欣赏对面的天然图画。少女峰的主要山峰有三座,呈东西向排列。由东而西分别为老人峰、僧侣峰和少女峰,三峰的高度分别为3970米、4099米、4158米,渐次升高。围绕这三座峰名字的由来有许多美丽的传说,少女峰也因此成为许多艺术家创作的素材。“老人峰”出自德语,其意为“我在这里”。“僧侣峰”则出自奥地利的一种马的名字,“少女”的原意是修女。僧侣峰横在老人峰和少女峰之间,使他们无法接触,也因此产生了种种的解释和传说。



少女峰




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观光台



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从观光台看雪峰



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在雪峰上行摄



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瑞士名城卢塞恩的湖光山色







    两次来到卢塞恩,一晴一雨,因着天气感受也不一样。第一次阳光灿烂,湖光山色映衬下的卢塞恩,分外靓丽,恍若仙境;第二次是在阴雨中游历,细雨缥缈,空气清湿,看着曾经熟悉的精致,更易引发对这座古老名城的幽思。




     卡贝尔桥(意译小教堂桥,因为桥是一条长廊,桥的两侧栏杆饰有许多鲜花,又称廊桥、花桥)。这座古老的木桥几乎成为卢塞恩的标志。卡贝尔桥建于1300年,全长240米,有120幅图画绘在廊桥横楣上,画中叙述了卢塞恩州和瑞士联邦的历史,每幅画下还配有一首德文题诗。桥的东侧连有一座红顶八角石塔,据说从前是用来关押囚犯的。



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      北岸一个公园内的石壁上,凿有一巨大狮子石雕。石狮长10米、高3米多的雄狮,被长矛刺中背部,痛苦地倒在地上;它的爪紧紧地执着一块盾牌,盾牌边上是两支折断的长矛。这头战斗不息的雄狮似乎在向游客讲述着一段悲壮的故事:法国大革命中,1792年8月10日,国王路易十六和王后被革命党人追杀,由800多名瑞士雇佣兵组成的卫队保卫着国王和王后。最后,全部战死沙场,国王和王后被俘。历史上,瑞士是一个贫穷落后的国家,男子苦于生计,纷纷到欧洲各国当雇佣兵。瑞士士兵忠于雇主,英勇善战。但金钱和荣誉掩盖不住雇佣兵制度的残酷,以这次事件为契机,瑞士停止了雇佣兵出口。




      为了让后代记住这一历史,19世纪初,阵亡将士的亲友策划、并于1821年请丹麦雕塑家在美丽的罗伊斯河北岸的山坡上建造了这尊雄狮石雕。雕塑的下面用拉丁文写着:“献给忠诚、勇敢的瑞士年轻人”。美国作家马克·吐温来到这里时,将其誉为“世界上最悲壮和最感人的石雕”。



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第二次来到卢塞恩。雨中的卢塞恩街巷、商店。



在这座老城里钟表店、巧克力店、工艺品店比比皆是。



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      卢塞恩三面山色葱茏、冈峦起伏;一面湖光粼粼、碧波千里。那湖水漫布在城区的东南方向,堤岸蜿蜒曲折,景色苍茫万象。有人称它为卢塞恩湖,但它的水域连及四个州的土地,所以四州湖这个名字对它更为恰当。四州湖是瑞士联邦的发祥地。图为雨中卢塞恩湖美景。



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