从喝豆汁看老北京人

从喝豆汁看老北京人

  早年——也就是说五十多年前,被称“北京人”的人要具备四条标准:“一口京腔,两句二黄,三餐佳馔,四季衣裳”。这里说的“佳馔”,不看值多少钱,要个有滋有味,比如说伏天喝碗热豆汁就一口虾油辣咸菜,喝得汗流浃背,浑身痛快,总共花不了两角钱,却也算“佳馔”一餐。

  为什么举例子单说豆汁?因为喝豆汁纯属北京人的专利。京外有地方管豆浆叫“豆汁”,有位山东人初到北京,看见招牌上写着“豆汁”,就进店要了一碗,喝了一口眉头紧皱,勉强咽下去后招手叫来店员很客气地小声说:“这豆汁别卖了,基本上酸了。”那伙计说:“好说您哪,不是基本上酸了,根本上就是酸的,这豆汁跟您山东的豆汁不是一码事您哪!”所以是不是北京人,测验方法就是叫他喝一口豆汁,若是眉开眼笑,打心里往外满意地嘘口长气,就是地道北京人;若是眉头紧皱,嘴角直咧,甭问这是外来户。

  那伙计说得不假,北京豆汁跟山东豆汁根本不是一回事。山东豆汁就是黄豆做豆腐的浆水,看起来白中透黄,喝起来香中带甜。北京豆汁看起来颜色灰里透绿,喝起来味道又臭又酸。可一旦喝上道,就有其味无穷之叹,就如同洋人吃臭“吉斯”(也就是臭奶酪)一样,吃不惯者难以下咽,甚至作呕,吃上瘾的一天不吃就觉着欠点儿什么。因此当年东安市场的小店“豆汁何”名声一点不小于隔壁大饭庄东来顺。穿着华贵、坐着私家轿车专程来喝五分钱一碗豆汁的,大有人在。

  北京豆汁是怎么做的?怎么单出这种味道?

  北京豆汁根本不是故意做的,它是用绿豆做粉丝、粉皮的下脚料!纯净的淀粉拿去做粉丝、粉皮;剩下青中透绿的下脚料,放在一边令其发酵,待发出酸味来,就成豆汁了。店家以极便宜的价钱买来,经过加工,再作为成品出售。

  既然已经变酸发臭了,还有什么可加工的?

  没这么简单。生豆汁不能喝,煮得滚开烂熟,可就又没酸臭味了,怎么办?更老辈的北京人发明了好办法:把生豆汁买回去也来一次沉淀,见细碎的固体颗粒物都沉底了,就把上边发过酵的绿色汤水,放进锅里煮。待汤水见开,立马舀一勺沉淀物投进去,一次只加一勺,再开再加,这就叫“勾兑”。要加多少勾兑出来才不浓不淡,臭中有香,酸得可口?这里就大有学问。要不然当年尽管有走街串巷推着车卖生豆汁的,人们还是宁可多花两大枚进豆汁店去喝呢!一来是店里有专门搭配豆汁吃的焦圈,二来是买回生豆汁很难勾兑得可口。

  其实店里豆汁进价本儿低,卖的也不贵。五十年代,著名的店家如豆汁何、豆汁徐、豆汁张,一碗豆汁也只卖几分钱,加上俩焦圈也不过两角大洋。便宜归便宜,可北京人并不只为了省钱才喝豆汁,就为的找这一乐。北京人喝豆汁不分穷富,你到“豆汁何”、“豆汁李”门口看看,既有趿拉着鞋手里掂着铜板来喝的,可也有袍子马褂衣装坐包月车来的。既有膀大腰圆卖力气挣饭吃的体力劳动者,也有穿长衫别钢笔的文化人。十多年前,不忘城南旧事的林海音先生从台北来到北京,舒乙和我问她:“您几十年没回来了,有什么要我们帮忙的事吗?别客气!”她说:“别的事没有,就想叫你们领我去喝碗豆汁。”我跟舒乙就领她去了“炎黄美食城”。吃其他小吃时挺谦逊、挺稳重,豆汁一上来她老人家显出真性情来了,一口气喝了六碗她还想要,吓得我和舒乙连忙挡驾说:“留点肚子明天再喝吧您哪,别吓着我们!”她说:“这才算回到北京了!”

  我说:就凭这一点,林家六婶就既是台湾人,又算得地道老北京!

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