Clouds were gathering over Midas Hotel & Casino (near Manila Airport) minuets after I checked in. A heavy downpour followed. The jeepney-filled street was instantly flooded and boisterous. The scene seemed familiar. All tropical islands share a latitude of disorientation and relaxation, to some extent. Chaos can be good if mixed with proper characters. Manila embraces me again, like the first time.
As I'm writing, Stella Maris, our dive boat, docks at Puerto Princesa Port, the launching pad from Palawan Island. She is an aluminum ship built by the Japanese in 80s and reconditioned by a Chinese Filipino two years ago. I chatted with Lars, the current owner, on board. He is neither a diver nor plans to become one. Luck threw him a business proposition he couldn't refuse, as a savvy advertising executive. Course of life voyage is charted by sheer chance more often than strict plan. I inquired rigorously but forgot to ask the million dollar question, what's the price tag for this baby?
It is still early from dinner time. I am walking up and down the decks, maybe for cosmetic inspection, maybe for sentimental journey. As a former sailor, I find Stellar Maris in envious condition. The attention to detail is impressive. The interior deco has less to do with natural immersion in marine riches than urban indulgence of bourgeois taste. Lying in my bed, I start to picture sailing to an island of utopia with all my close friends on Stellar Maris, wining, dining, dancing, debating, just like the hedonistic passengers in the film "The Ship Sails On" by Federico Fellini. An intoxicating odyssy of decadence, fantasy, and lunacy, immortalized in a brief moment of cinematic triumph.
A BBQ smell from the kitchen suggests that dinner may be served shortly. I have to end here and get ready because I haven't eaten since breakfast. The diving tour is 8 day long. Moments ago, the dive master, Rommel, proudly presented a video of whale-sharks he shot. Tomorrow and onward, there may be chances to spot the magnificent creatures. The archipelago that has witnessed the evolution of both natural wonders and human atrocities awaits ahead in anticipation. I feel the same urge as Gen. MacArthur and will utter with confidence, authority and self-righteousness, "I shall return". My march will be equally invincible.
June 10, 2015, Palawan, Philippines
Stella Maris
My dive sites
Puerto Princesa Port
