The Summer 2007 Follow Up by Maurice Graham Henry
I have made numerous visits to Jean Georges since writing the November 2005 review (below). And I am most pleased to report that I enthusiastically stand by it. While admittedly not every meal reached the highest of heights heights of the dinner described in that review, I've been most impressed with the unwavering quality of the food and the service. Yes, the reaffirmation of the four star rating by the New York Times was indeed well-deserved. Indeed, I was so impressed with a lunch menu this summer that included a delicious red snapper in an herbal broth and a thoroughly original squab with asian pears that I raised the ranking of the restaurant to from "excellent" to "excellent/extraordinary" on the main Best French Restaurants in New York page.
However, on another visit six months before, the winter tasting menu I had seemed to me to be considerably more "Asian" than any other menu I had there previously. While I'm no expert in far-eastern cooking and can therefore offer no hard proof of this, I thought then and still believe now that the much of the food on this last visit seemed (with the exception of the venison preparation) more "Asian with French influences" than the other way around. Here is the winter tasting menu I had, along with the the fabulous wine pairings selected by Hristo, the sommelier that evening:
Amuse Bouche
Jerusalem Artichoke Soup with Black Truffle Emulsion
Salmon with Fennel and Tarragon Cream, cured in Sambuca
Dehydrated Pineapple with Chili and Lime with Mint Sugar
Sliced Hamachi, Meyer Lemon and Rose
Wine pairing: Vogelsang, Heidi Schrock, Weinbauer, Austria
Foie Gras Brûlée, Dried Sour Cherries, Candied Pistachios,
White Port GeléeWine pairing: Monbazillac, Château Belingard, France 2002
Wild Mushroom Tea, Parmesan, Chili and Thyme
Wine Pairing: Txakolina, Txomin Etxaniz, Getaria, Spain 2005
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Red Snapper, Lily Bulb-Radish Salad, White Sesame and Lavender
Wine Pairing: Chablis, Joseph Drouhin Grand Cru Vaudesir, Burgundy, France 2001
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Maine Lobster, Chestnut and Espelette Pepper Butter
Wine Pairing: Viognier, Cold Heaven Sanford & Benedict Vineyard, Santa Barbara, California 2005
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Medallion of Venison with Bleu Cheese Foam, Spinach
Wine Pairing: Kamen Claret, Sonoma, California 2005
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Dessert
"LATE HARVEST"
Crispy Spiced Chocolate, Beet Parfait, Yogurt Powder
Warm Semolina Pancake, Poached Pears, Cumin
Sautéed Apples, Olive Oil Sponge, Maple Brown Butter Ice Cream
Pomegranate SorbetMarshmallows, Cookies and Chocolates
An Excellent Restaurant, Capable of the Extraordinary
Review of Jean Georges by Maurice Graham Henry
The Chalet Suisse in Manhattan was a wonderful restaurant. I still miss it. I remember an elderly Swiss diplomat, a regular customer, would walk in the door and immediately ask the owner, Konrad Egli, "Is it possible to find a good Swiss meal in New York?" At least while the Chalet Suisse remained open, the answer was an unhesitant Yes.
For French cooking, New York is fortunate to have not just a few, but several very good French restaurants capable of producing a superior French meal. Indeed, a few of these are capable of producing an excellent French meal. But is there even one that can produce a truly extraordinary French meal? Sadly, I believed the answer was no, until my first dinner at Jean Georges, the New York flagship restaurant of master chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, now thankfully allows me to say yes.
What makes a French meal extraordinary, you ask? Excellent service, excellent food, to be sure. But what propels the step up to "extraordinary" from "excellent" is excellent food and service?all with perfectly-matched wines, and a truly superb cheese course--again, with wines all perfectly matched to the different cheeses. But more on this extraordinary meal later. I have had the good fortune to dine at Jean Georges six times now: once for lunch, and five times for dinner. Add to that a Sunday evening supper at the more casual Nougatine (next to the Jean Georges, but sharing the same kitchen), and I am pleased to inform you that Jean Georges is truly an excellent restaurant, capable of the extraordinary.
One enters Jean Georges through the Central Park West entrance, just to the left of the entrance of the Trump International Hotel an Towers. The service at the front desk is consistently friendly and attentive. The dining room, designed by Adam Tihany (who also designed Per Se) is bright and spacious, surrounded on three sides by large windows offering lovely views of Central Park and Columbus Circle. This contemporary interior (pictured) immediately makes the diner feel relaxed and at ease. Unfortunately, once the restaurant is completely full, the noise level can be somewhat on the loud side. That is why, at this restaurant especially, my preference is to secure a very early reservation.
Now back to that first extraordinary dinner. My captain for that evening, a lovely young woman named Christina, comes to my table and greets me. She recommends that I begin with a glass of Champagne?a much welcomed suggestion. She recommends the Pierre Gimonnet Blanc de Blancs, her personal favorite. It is cool and crisp, dry but not overly so.
I am then introduced to the menu. Here there is no à la carte dinner menu. There are three tastings, the first being the Prix Fixe at $95. This includes an appetizer, a middle course, the main course, and dessert. The second and third are larger tasting menus, a signature menu of Jean-Georges Vongerichten classic dishes and a seasonal menu, each at $125. I opt for the Prix Fixe menu, with the addition of the cheese course.
"May I show you our wine list?" is the question that invariably follows my menu selection. I decline. I want the restaurant to pair a wine with each course, with zero input from me. (As with any French restaurant I review, their ability to successfully pair wines with my meal is a key component of my evaluation.) Then the sommelier for the evening, a young man named Hristo, arrives at my table. I tell him exactly what I expect. His immediate enthusiasm and welcoming of the pairing challenge puts my mind at ease.
Following is the menu I selected, with wines (except for the champagne) selected by Hristo:
Champagne: Brut Blanc de Blancs 1er Cru NV, Pierre Gimonnet
Amuse Bouche
Foie Gras Terrine, Slow Roasted Strawberries and Aged Balsamic Vinegar
Wine pairing: Monbazillac 2002, Chateau Belingard
Corn Ravioli, Market Tomato Salad, Basil Fondue
Wine pairing: Blanc de Lynch-Bages 2003, Bordeaux
Duck Breast Topped with Cracked Jordan Almonds, Honey Wine Jus
Wine Pairing: Pinot Noir "Dutton Ranch" 2002, Dutton Goldfield
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Selection of Cheeses
Brin d'Amour (Raw Sheep's Milk from Corsica)
Délice de Bourgogne (Whipped Triple Crème Cow's Milk from Burgundy)
Marshmallows, Cookies and Chocolates
Wine Pairing: Pinot Gris "Patergarten" 2003, Blanc
Pyrénées Brebis (Raw Sheep's Milk from the Pays Basque)
Gabietou (Raw Sheep's Milk from Aquitaine)
Wine Pairing: Riversates "Le Serrat" 1995, Domaine Sarda Malet
Epoisses (Cow's Milk Washed with Marc de Bourgogne from the Côte d'Or, Burgundy)
Persillé de Malzieu (Raw Sheep's Milk Blue from the French Alps)
Wine Pairing: Rasteau "Vin Doux Naturel" 2000, Domaine La Soumade
Dessert
"RHUBARB"
Nougat Glacé, Bitter Chocolate, Candied Almond
Alsatian Streusel Tart, Cremé Fraîche, Mustard Seed
Red Wine Poached Rhubarb Consommé, Passion Seeds, ChamomileBanana Flambé, Peanut Praline, Rum and Coca Cola Ice Cream
Wine Pairing: Brachetto D'Acqui "Rosa Regale" 2003, Banfi
With my order in, I sit back comfortably with my champagne. And...do I hear music? I am somewhat put off by the recorded music that begins to play through the dining room. (Generally, your reviewer doesn't like to eat to recorded music. Canned music is acceptable, sometimes even welcomed, in a bar or lounge area, but not in a fine dining establishment.) However, the music is pleasant enough, so I decide not to let it bother me. [Note: I am pleased to report the absence of music during my most recent visits this fall.] I am offered bread, a choice of a French roll or a large slice of a rye loaf. I take one of each. The bread is superior, but not exceptional—and only salted butter is provided.
Next comes a lovely amuse bouche ("amusement for the mouth", smaller and less filling than the welcome canapés served at similar restaurants.). This is a trio on one plate, consisting of (from right to left, how the chef recommends they be eaten) Hamachi on toasted garlic brioche, goat cheese in a tomato water gelée, and a glass of chilled basil soup with shrimp fondue. Everything is refreshing a flavorful, a lovely introduction to my dinner that I enjoy with my champagne.
Now for the Foie Gras. I have high expectations, because at my lunch here two months prior, the highlight of the meal was a Foie Gras "brûlée" served with kumquat marmalade. But the terrine preparation that arrived this time, served with finely cut strawberries and some balsamic vinegar, absolutely enthralled me. As before, it is so creamy, almost like a mousse, but with all the decadent richness of a truly outstanding terrine. (Christina explained that at Jean Georges, the terrine is soaked in cognac for an extended period, giving it that extraordinary creamy texture.) Yet the addition of the strawberries and balsamic only enhance it further. And Hristo did very well, pairing the Monbazillac 2002, Chateau Belingard with this dish. It was sweet, but not overly so.
My next course was like nothing I have had before. While the description of corn ravioli in a basil fondue is straightforward enough, the combined tastes of the fresh corn and basil caused me to again sit back in awe of the extraordinary level of cooking coming out of the Jean Georges kitchen. And then comes my main course, the most delicious duck I have ever had: a perfect medium rare duck breast topped with cracked Jordan almonds, mildly sweetened with a honey wine jus. This was accompanied by a rich, flavorful duck leg confit.
Another dinner a few weeks later provided the opportunity to have the rack of lamb. Prepared with cardamom crumbs and fava bean purée, it is one of the best I have ever tasted, And at my most recent dinner in early November (when I had the opportunity to personally congratulate chef Vongerichten on his attainment of three Michelin stars), I finally had the opportunity to order the sea scallops with caramelized cauliflower and a caper-raisin emulsion that the noted critic Francis Bown had so enjoyed when he first took me to lunch there. (Click here to read his review.). I also enjoyed the flavorful filet of beef served on top of spinach and mustard greens, along with an onion compote—a welcome replacement to the sliced beef served with a chicory sauce (a rather bland dish from the summer menu that was one of the very few letdowns). This filet is prepared "sous vide", resulting in a perfect medium rare texture throughout. A rich and flavorful dish, this was perfectly accompanied by a glass of 1999 Volnay 1er cru, Dominique Laurent.
I am pleased to confirm that yes, the ultimate "12" rating of this restaurant (the combined total of 3 Michelin stars, 4 stars from The New York Times, and 5 stars from Mobil) is indeed well deserved. A total rating shared only with Thomas Keller's per se across the street, it should only be attained by those who consistently produce excellent to extraordinary cooking in New York, French or otherwise. Jean Georges meets that standard.
Maurice Graham Henry
November 7, 2005
