Alaska (4) - Dalton Highway I

After Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, we stopped at Fairbanks for two days, visiting UAF's museum and large animal research station. It was fun. Our next goal was to drive north to Prudhoe Bay through Dalton Highway if possible.

Dalton Highway, also known as the Haul Road, is a primitive road that begins 84 miles north of Fairbanks, ends 414 miles later in Deadhorse, the industrial camp at Prudhoe Bay. The road was built in 1974 in just five months to support oil development at Prudhoe Bay. In 1994, the entire length of the road was open to the public for the first time. Most rental car companies prohibit driving on Dalton Highway. Tire/Vehicle repair services were only available at Yukon Crossing (MP 56), Coldfoot (MP 175), and Deadhorse (MP 414). Any break downs could be very expensive to fix. Towing was near impossible. Staff at Fairbanks Visitor Center clearly discouraged us from driving the road ourselves. The lady suggested we took a tour. It was already late afternoon, too late to find a tour that would leave the next morning, so we decided to take our chance, driving ourselves. Our plan: Drive as far as we feel comfortable, head back if things are getting bad.

It turned out Dalton Highway was not too bad, overall it was better than McCarthy and Nabesna Roads. Our average speed was ~40 mph. The beginning of the Dalton Highway was very rough. After Yukon Crossing, it got better. Sections of the road were paved, but it could be even worse than gravel, because there were so many potholes, it was impossible to avoid them sometimes. We also had to watch for dips, bumps, sharp rocks and trucks. They could be anywhere. Pretty much the driver had to concentrate on the road the whole time. Any distraction could have severe consequence. One time, we were driving on a paved section that was relatively smooth, Dave took a look at the view for just one second, we hit a dip so bad that our large (30") suitcase in the back went flying in the air. Good thing we rented a high clearance SUV, if it were a car, I am not sure we would make it.

1. Dalton Highway with Trans-Alaska Oil Pipeline along the way.


2. Along Dalton Highway.


We made it to Coldfoot in early afternoon, and stayed there for the night. Coldfoot (population 13), located about halfway between Fairbanks and Deadhorse, was originally a gold rush town. It got its name in 1900 when early prospectors reportedly got "cold feet" and left before winter set in.

Met two interesting people here: One is a guy from Michigan, about 20 years old. He somehow found on the Internet that Coldfoot Camp (the only service provider in Coldfoot) needed to hire helpers a week ago, so he gave them a call, got here two days later. He already climbed nearby mountains on his off time. He plans to stay another two months before going home (The camp will pay for the return ticket too). What a way to travel! The other is a girl, local Alaskan, in her late 20s. She works as a tour guide in the summer and a loader (load/unload supply planes) in the winter (Antarctica's summer) in McMurdo, the American base in Antarctica. Last winter was her first time working in McMurdo. She showed us tons of photos, about her life in Antarctica. It was really interesting. She said she got the job because: 1. she has friend who had worked there for years referred her; 2. A lot of heavy equipment operators quit their Antarctica jobs to work in Iraq, created new openings. I can't believe there are people choosing Iraq over Antarctica. Of course, not everyone is like that. She said she met PhD took dishwashing job just to be there.

3. Middle Fork Koyukuk River at Wiseman, another old mining community (population 21), located 17 miles north of Coldfoot.


4. One of the newer home in Wiseman.


5. Deserted Wiseman Post Office.


(To be continued)