我已写了衣食住,接下来写“行”。
衣食住是保障玩得好,玩得开心的前提。在出发之前,我们做了非常仔细的功课,力争把各个景点都玩到,又玩得轻松。
我向去过班芙的朋友取经,又在网上看了好些人写的游记,把大家的经验归纳到一起。
首先列出景点的名字,在Google Map上List 出来, 然后根据彼此相关距离长短选择去的时间。因为我们在Banff里住4晚,Jasper2 晚,有的景点就放在从Banff去往Jasper的路上经过,这样不用走回头路。Banff的湖很多,是Banff的一大特色,游人很多,Parking是个大问题,我们选择一大早去,这样泊车不担心,而且照相时是顺光,取景相对容易。
尽管这样,还是碰到问题,只能说有些加拿大人为了谋利,做事不地道,后面细说。
具体行程安排如下:
6 Nights Tour plan
Day 0 Arrive at Calgary Overnight Calgary
Day 1 in and around Banff
9:00 – 10:00 |
Breakfast in OBE, Calgary |
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10:00 – 11:00 |
Grocery shopping in Calgary |
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11:00-12:00 |
Lunch with friends |
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12pm-1:30pm |
1.5h |
Drive from Calgary to Lake Minnewanka |
1:30pm-2pm |
0.5h |
Lake Minnewanka |
2pm-2:30pm |
5m |
Tour nearby Two Jack Lake |
2:30pm-3:00pm |
17m |
Visit Tourist Information Centre on Banff Ave to pick up maps, brochures. Then tour around the town site. |
3pm-3:45pm |
11m |
Drive to Bow Falls Viewpoint |
3:45pm-5pm |
10m |
Tour in Banff town |
5pm-5:30pm |
32m |
Drive to Hidden Ridge Resort, Banff |
Banff Gondola 的Combo票网上提前两天买,180 加币一人相对192加币便宜一些。但Lake Minnewanka 的Cruise坐的真没什么意思,可以不去;Gondola坐一坐上山感觉还行,山顶上有个4层楼的Building,里面有餐厅,放映厅,Gift Shop,一个 小Trail,可以从这个建筑走到另一个山头,Mountain Goat 就是在那里看到的。
山上的风很大,尽管已近8月,仍觉得很凉。天气预报说有雷阵雨,果不其然,一阵阴云密布,电闪雷鸣,大雨倾盆,还有冰雹,吓得我们赶紧躲进餐厅里。 我好担心Gondola 因为天气停运,过去一看,人家工作人员毫不慌张,该干嘛干嘛,把上山的人请出Gondola , 把排队下山的人依次请进去。Gondola上山下山的票时间间隔两小时,若你想提前下山,必须到前台改票。
Banff小镇的布局很有欧洲小城的风范,每个店面门脸都不大,卖冰激凌的,巧克力的,运动服饰的,餐厅,小酒店比比皆是。镇中心有个IGA,加拿大的Grocery 店,可以买到生熟肉食,新鲜的蔬菜,水果,并不贵。我还看到一个Asian Market, 专卖亚洲食品,价格奇高。
Day 2 Lake Louise and Banff Gondola
6:30-7:10 |
40m |
Drive from hotel to Lake Louise* |
7:10-8:00 |
50m |
Tour Lake Louise* |
8:00-11:00p |
3h |
Hike from Lake Louise to Tea House (short trail, one way 4km,up 400m, 3hrs tour, mosquito spray) |
11:00a-12:00p |
1h |
Lake Agnes Tea House |
12:00pm-12:35pm |
35min |
Drive to Banff Gondola |
1:00pm-3:00pm |
2h |
Ride to Sulphur Mtn via the Banff Gondola |
5:00pm-5:15pm |
15m |
Drive back to Hidden Ridge Resort, Banff |
* Lake Louise should be visited in the morning. Sun glare makes lake and the mountain in the background very dark in the afternoon.
Louise湖的颜色极有特色,蓝绿带有乳白,湖上红舟荡漾,湖中雪山倒影,宛如人间仙境。Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise 这个久负盛名的Hotel依湖而立。 我们曾想订这个酒店,哪怕提前一年订,都不Available,做罢。Hiking的路有3到5公里,因为有些人可以骑马上山,快到Tea House 的一段路上,马粪极多,臭不可闻。山上的Tea house不大,位子不多,一壶茶要14加币,还有Sandwich什么的,对Tea House 的浓重薄合味儿的茶我兴趣缺缺,我们坐了会儿赏了赏景,去了趟卫生间,下山。
Day 3 Moraine Lake, Johnston Canyon and Bow Valley Parkway
7:00AM-7:40AM |
40m |
Drive from hotel to Moraine Lake |
7:40AM-9:00AM |
1h |
Tour Moraine Lake** (Rockpile Trail need 0.5 hours) |
Drive to Johnston Canyon |
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Walk the short trail to Johnston Canyon lower (1.1km) and upper falls (2.7km, 3 hours tour), |
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Lunch |
Mount Fairview Dining Room |
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2:00p-5:00p |
3h |
Bow Valley Parkway (2.5hr Scenic drive) |
5:00p-5:30p |
30m |
Drive back to Hidden Ridge Resort |
Moraine Lake,这个Lake与 Lake Louise在同一个方向,头一天我们去Lake Louise的路上经过Moraine Lake的路口时就发现路口上有两个小胖妞守在那里,我们没在意。第二天我们到的时候是早上7:30,准备拐入入口的时候,小胖妞说Parking Lot满了,我们不能进,只能去坐Shuttle,Shuttle票是21加币一人。无奈,我们只能把车停在旁边经过的一个Mall里,这个Mall里有一个Visiting Center, Mall里的Parking也有讲究,有的可以免费停一天,多数是2小时免费,停的时候要看清楚。Shuttle 是定点开的,有的季节有免费Shuttle,我忘了具体时间。坐上Shuttle到?Moraine Lake湖边,我们发现有很多Parking 是空着的,所谓的Parking Lot满了是个借口,只为了让你去花钱坐Shuttle。所以说不地道。其他的景点,没什么大波折。 Johnston Canyon的Lower Fall, 有个小山洞可以非常近距离的观看小瀑布,需要排排队,其实看不看无所谓。
Day 4 Banff and Yoho National Park
7am-8am |
1h18m |
Drive to [Emerald Lake, Columbia-Shuswap A, BC V0A 1G0, Canada] |
2h |
Tour Emerald Lake |
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Tour Natural Bridge |
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Truffle Pigs Bistro & Lodge |
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Tour Takakkaw Falls (345 m, 4 steps fall), take a short hike to very close viewpoint of the fall. |
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Drive to [Takakkaw Falls, Yoho National Park, BC V0A 1G0, Canada], on the way stop at Spiral Tunnel and Meeting of the Rivers (blue river form Yoho River, white, with Kicking Horse River, blue) |
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Lake O’Hara (need to book online) |
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Drive back to Hidden Ridge Resort |
Day 5 Banff— Columbia Icefields Parkway to the Glaciers—Jasper
8am-9am |
1h12m |
Check out from hotel, drive to Bow Lake |
9am-11am |
24m |
Stop on the way at Crossfoot Glacier Bow Lake (take picture) Bow Summit Peyto Lake (need to go to viewpoint) Mistaya Canyon |
11am-1pm |
1h15m 45m |
Drive to Columbia icefield adventure & Glacier Skywalk Lunch Altitude Restaurant |
1:30pm-4:00pm |
2h30m |
Tour Columbia icefield adventure & Glacier Skywalk |
4:00pm-5:30pm |
2m 43m 19m |
Drive to Jasper. On the way back, stop and visit: Athabasca Glacier Sunwapta Falls Athabasca Falls (Canyon) |
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24m |
Drive to Jasper Mount Robson Inn |
冰川很壮观, 据说上面大的冰洞有10米宽,冰缝有30米深。我们专门接了一小瓶水喝了,没拉肚肚。据开车的导游说,这个冰川的水分为三支分别流到北冰洋,大西洋,太平洋。上冰川前,先到Glacier Information Center按票的时间排队,坐上大巴,上到半山腰,再换乘有一人高巨大轮胎的特殊Bus,上冰川。有的坡45度角那么陡,不是这种特殊轮胎的车根本上不去。冰川平时据说风很大,但我们去的那天好似没风,运气不错。到达冰川下车之前,司机会反复强调,只能在冰上呆20分钟,过时不候。果然,我们车上的两名乘客,因为留恋忘返,被拉下,只能央求别的车带他们下山。下到半山腰中转站,再换乘普通Bus去Sky Walk,SkyWalk 没想象的那么恐怖,俺在上头又蹦又跳,没事。
Overnight in Jasper Town
Day 6 Maligne Lake, Maligne Canyon and Mt. Edith Cavell
8am-9am |
1h |
Drive to Maligne Lake, on the way back, stopped at Medicine Lake |
9am-10am |
1h |
Tour Maligne Lake and Medicine Lake |
10am-10:45am |
45m |
Drive to Maligne Canyon (6 bridges) |
10:45am-11:45am |
1h |
Tour Maligne Canyon (6 bridges) |
Lunch time |
Bear's Paw Bakery |
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21m |
Drive to Patricia Lake, Pyramid Lake |
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Drive to Mt. Edith Cavell |
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Drive back to Jasper town |
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Dinner in Jasper |
Overnight Jasper
Day 7 Drive back to Calgary
Banff, Yoho, Jasper 这一趟玩下来,计划的景点都看到了,我列的时间现在看来还是非常合理的。有人说Jasper比Banff美;我觉得,Jasper的景色不如Banff。Banff的山不如黄石美,动物没有黄石公园多。当然,每个园子都有自己的特色,个人喜好不同。
总的来说,这次去Banff比去年去黄石吃住行都好,因为计划周密,安排合理,两家人都很尽兴。儿子因此对National Park兴趣浓浓,要求我每年安排一次这样的旅行。
以后每次出行,我决定都做一做功课,保证吃好玩好。