班芙国家公园一周游 (下)

我已写了衣食住，接下来写“行”。

衣食住是保障玩得好，玩得开心的前提。在出发之前，我们做了非常仔细的功课，力争把各个景点都玩到，又玩得轻松。

我向去过班芙的朋友取经，又在网上看了好些人写的游记，把大家的经验归纳到一起。

首先列出景点的名字，在Google Map上List 出来，然后根据彼此相关距离长短选择去的时间。因为我们在Banff里住4晚，Jasper2 晚，有的景点就放在从Banff去往Jasper的路上经过，这样不用走回头路。Banff的湖很多，是Banff的一大特色，游人很多，Parking是个大问题，我们选择一大早去，这样泊车不担心，而且照相时是顺光，取景相对容易。

尽管这样，还是碰到问题，只能说有些加拿大人为了谋利，做事不地道，后面细说。

具体行程安排如下：

6 Nights Tour plan

Day 0 Arrive at Calgary Overnight Calgary

Day 1 in and around Banff

9:00 – 10:00		Breakfast in OBE, Calgary
10:00 – 11:00		Grocery shopping in Calgary
11:00-12:00		Lunch with friends
12pm-1:30pm	1.5h	Drive from Calgary to Lake Minnewanka
1:30pm-2pm	0.5h	Lake Minnewanka
2pm-2:30pm	5m	Tour nearby Two Jack Lake
2:30pm-3:00pm	17m	Visit Tourist Information Centre on Banff Ave to pick up maps, brochures. Then tour around the town site.
3pm-3:45pm	11m	Drive to Bow Falls Viewpoint
3:45pm-5pm	10m	Tour in Banff town
5pm-5:30pm	32m	Drive to Hidden Ridge Resort, Banff

Banff Gondola 的Combo票网上提前两天买，180 加币一人相对192加币便宜一些。但Lake Minnewanka 的Cruise坐的真没什么意思，可以不去；Gondola坐一坐上山感觉还行，山顶上有个4层楼的Building，里面有餐厅，放映厅，Gift Shop，一个小Trail，可以从这个建筑走到另一个山头，Mountain Goat 就是在那里看到的。

山上的风很大，尽管已近8月，仍觉得很凉。天气预报说有雷阵雨，果不其然，一阵阴云密布，电闪雷鸣，大雨倾盆，还有冰雹，吓得我们赶紧躲进餐厅里。我好担心Gondola 因为天气停运，过去一看，人家工作人员毫不慌张，该干嘛干嘛，把上山的人请出Gondola ，把排队下山的人依次请进去。Gondola上山下山的票时间间隔两小时，若你想提前下山，必须到前台改票。

Banff小镇的布局很有欧洲小城的风范，每个店面门脸都不大，卖冰激凌的，巧克力的，运动服饰的，餐厅，小酒店比比皆是。镇中心有个IGA，加拿大的Grocery 店，可以买到生熟肉食，新鲜的蔬菜，水果，并不贵。我还看到一个Asian Market，专卖亚洲食品，价格奇高。

Day 2 Lake Louise and Banff Gondola

6:30-7:10	40m	Drive from hotel to Lake Louise*
7:10-8:00	50m	Tour Lake Louise*
8:00-11:00p	3h	Hike from Lake Louise to Tea House (short trail, one way 4km,up 400m, 3hrs tour, mosquito spray)
11:00a-12:00p	1h	Lake Agnes Tea House
12:00pm-12:35pm	35min	Drive to Banff Gondola
1:00pm-3:00pm	2h	Ride to Sulphur Mtn via the Banff Gondola
5:00pm-5:15pm	15m	Drive back to Hidden Ridge Resort, Banff

* Lake Louise should be visited in the morning. Sun glare makes lake and the mountain in the background very dark in the afternoon.

Louise湖的颜色极有特色，蓝绿带有乳白，湖上红舟荡漾，湖中雪山倒影，宛如人间仙境。Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise 这个久负盛名的Hotel依湖而立。我们曾想订这个酒店，哪怕提前一年订，都不Available，做罢。Hiking的路有3到5公里，因为有些人可以骑马上山，快到Tea House 的一段路上，马粪极多，臭不可闻。山上的Tea house不大，位子不多，一壶茶要14加币，还有Sandwich什么的，对Tea House 的浓重薄合味儿的茶我兴趣缺缺，我们坐了会儿赏了赏景，去了趟卫生间，下山。

Day 3 Moraine Lake, Johnston Canyon and Bow Valley Parkway

7:00AM-7:40AM	40m	Drive from hotel to Moraine Lake
7:40AM-9:00AM	1h	Tour Moraine Lake (Rockpile Trail need 0.5 hours)**
		Drive to Johnston Canyon
		Walk the short trail to Johnston Canyon lower (1.1km) and upper falls (2.7km, 3 hours tour),
Lunch		Mount Fairview Dining Room
2:00p-5:00p	3h	Bow Valley Parkway (2.5hr Scenic drive)
5:00p-5:30p	30m	Drive back to Hidden Ridge Resort

Moraine Lake，这个Lake与 Lake Louise在同一个方向，头一天我们去Lake Louise的路上经过Moraine Lake的路口时就发现路口上有两个小胖妞守在那里，我们没在意。第二天我们到的时候是早上7：30，准备拐入入口的时候，小胖妞说Parking Lot满了，我们不能进，只能去坐Shuttle，Shuttle票是21加币一人。无奈，我们只能把车停在旁边经过的一个Mall里，这个Mall里有一个Visiting Center， Mall里的Parking也有讲究，有的可以免费停一天，多数是2小时免费，停的时候要看清楚。Shuttle 是定点开的，有的季节有免费Shuttle，我忘了具体时间。坐上Shuttle到?Moraine Lake湖边，我们发现有很多Parking 是空着的，所谓的Parking Lot满了是个借口，只为了让你去花钱坐Shuttle。所以说不地道。其他的景点，没什么大波折。 Johnston Canyon的Lower Fall, 有个小山洞可以非常近距离的观看小瀑布，需要排排队，其实看不看无所谓。

Day 4 Banff and Yoho National Park

7am-8am	1h18m	Drive to [Emerald Lake, Columbia-Shuswap A, BC V0A 1G0, Canada]
	2h	Tour Emerald Lake
		Tour Natural Bridge
		Truffle Pigs Bistro & Lodge
		Tour Takakkaw Falls (345 m, 4 steps fall), take a short hike to very close viewpoint of the fall.
		Drive to [Takakkaw Falls, Yoho National Park, BC V0A 1G0, Canada], on the way stop at Spiral Tunnel and Meeting of the Rivers (blue river form Yoho River, white, with Kicking Horse River, blue)
		Lake O’Hara (need to book online)
		Drive back to Hidden Ridge Resort

Day 5 Banff— Columbia Icefields Parkway to the Glaciers—Jasper

8am-9am	1h12m	Check out from hotel, drive to Bow Lake
9am-11am	24m	Stop on the way at Crossfoot Glacier Bow Lake (take picture) Bow Summit Peyto Lake (need to go to viewpoint) Mistaya Canyon
11am-1pm	1h15m 45m	Drive to Columbia icefield adventure & Glacier Skywalk Lunch Altitude Restaurant
1:30pm-4:00pm	2h30m	Tour Columbia icefield adventure & Glacier Skywalk
4:00pm-5:30pm	2m 43m 19m	Drive to Jasper. On the way back, stop and visit: Athabasca Glacier Sunwapta Falls Athabasca Falls (Canyon)
	24m	Drive to Jasper Mount Robson Inn

冰川很壮观，据说上面大的冰洞有10米宽，冰缝有30米深。我们专门接了一小瓶水喝了，没拉肚肚。据开车的导游说，这个冰川的水分为三支分别流到北冰洋，大西洋，太平洋。上冰川前，先到Glacier Information Center按票的时间排队，坐上大巴，上到半山腰，再换乘有一人高巨大轮胎的特殊Bus，上冰川。有的坡45度角那么陡，不是这种特殊轮胎的车根本上不去。冰川平时据说风很大，但我们去的那天好似没风，运气不错。到达冰川下车之前，司机会反复强调，只能在冰上呆20分钟，过时不候。果然，我们车上的两名乘客，因为留恋忘返，被拉下，只能央求别的车带他们下山。下到半山腰中转站，再换乘普通Bus去Sky Walk，SkyWalk 没想象的那么恐怖，俺在上头又蹦又跳，没事。

Overnight in Jasper Town

Day 6 Maligne Lake, Maligne Canyon and Mt. Edith Cavell

8am-9am	1h	Drive to Maligne Lake, on the way back, stopped at Medicine Lake
9am-10am	1h	Tour Maligne Lake and Medicine Lake
10am-10:45am	45m	Drive to Maligne Canyon (6 bridges)
10:45am-11:45am	1h	Tour Maligne Canyon (6 bridges)
Lunch time		Bear's Paw Bakery
	21m	Drive to Patricia Lake, Pyramid Lake
		Drive to Mt. Edith Cavell
		Drive back to Jasper town
		Dinner in Jasper