北非幻影---摩洛哥(1)。 朱建华、静儿
朱建华
2019-04-13 阅读26
今年3月23日,坐埃及航空飞抵卡萨布兰卡,开始为期9天的摩洛哥之行。
行前,唯一能跟摩洛哥相关联的认知是卡萨布兰卡,那个城市是当年看《北非谍影》时,被深深刻入记忆的。黑白片里,卡萨布兰卡的铺满鹅卵石的窄巷在昏暗的街灯下折射出迷茫,肃穆,和神秘。
摩洛哥虽然近99%国民信奉伊斯兰教,是为索尼教派(与沙特相同),但其特定的地理和历史变迁决定了,这是一个相当开放的国家,尤其现国王摩哈默德六世为振兴国民经济,将旅游业提到空前高度,从而创造出宽松的大环境。
一日五次的膜拜没有改变,但街头蒙面的妇女只占极少数。 更有意义的是,刚从埃及游完,那里仍经常有一夫四妻的家庭,但是摩洛哥在现国王指令下,已取消了一夫四妻制,除非元配无法生育等特例
此次摩洛哥行凡2000公里,从西濒大西洋的卡 萨布兰卡向东南行,经南方重镇马拉喀什,南下至撒哈拉大沙漠,往东至Merzouga, 北上达四大古都之一的费斯(Fes), 继而到最北的离直布罗陀海峡仅40公里的丹吉尔(同时拥有地中海和大西洋海滩,能同时看到非州和欧洲的传奇城市),然后沿大西洋岸南下至摩洛哥首都拉巴特,最后返回卡萨布兰卡。
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扔下行李,直奔著名的哈桑二世清真寺。
该寺为非洲最大及世界第五大的清真寺。
它起建于1986年,完工于1993年,中间是世界上最高的尖塔(210米)。夜间,塔尖上射出兰色激光,指向麦加。
由于国力较弱,库拏不丰,8亿美元的造价是一个沉重的负担。国王穆哈默德六世遂捐出二亿美元,全国一半人口捐钱,最少的一个捐了5第拉姆(半美元)。
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广场上的人群分为两大类:带着小孩休闲的母亲们和踢足球的小学生们,此外,也有我们这些异乡客。
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清真寺的1/3建在海洋上,由从海滩上采集的大石奠基。站在广场上面对肃穆的清真寺,来自大西洋微微发咸的春风拂过面颊,自有一种不可名状的感觉
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大厅极高,令人稍增一些畏惧感。
厅内可容二万五千人祈祷;寺外广场则可容纳八万人,因此在重大日子可见十万信徒同时祈祷
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进入清真寺须得脱鞋
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傍晚,走到那顶顶大名的“里克咖啡馆”,想去喝一杯,无奈要到晚上七点半才开门,且须预订才准入。只得在门口捏一张照片,悻悻而归
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下面两张是行程最后一晚,同行四个比我们游兴更炽的年轻女子11点以后进去拍下的。她们没有预约,但准备了一迭钱去贿赂看门人(像在埃及一样,在摩洛哥几乎没有钱摆不平的事),结果人家还真让她们进去喝了几杯。那是后话
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次晨,往南行,3个多小时后到达“红城”马拉喀什。12世纪左右,该城是摩洛哥王国最重要的政经中心。中世纪血腥的战争和权力的得失,使马拉喀什将第一重镇拱手让给了费斯(Fes). 然而,悠久的历史和独特的文化传承,使得不少旧址被联合国教科文组织列入世界遗产. 从王国历史看,红城的重要性可能是仅次于费斯
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马约尔公园:绚美的兰色在园内无处不在。上世纪二十年代由年轻的法国艺术家杰奎斯马约儿开始建造。他在周游世界后决定在马拉喀什定居,并收集了各地的奇珍异卉,建成了独一无二的马约尔植物园。园内百花竞艳,辅以铺天盖地的兰色间以少许黄色的建筑,遂成一个色彩缤纷的世界。其后,离婚耗去了马约尔的诺大家财,使得花园的维持无以为继,从而沦为荒芜。
上世纪八十年代,时装设计师伊芙圣罗兰(Yves-Saint-Laurent) 因为马约尔公园巨大的花树收藏和独一无二的色彩及布局,买下了它。继续精心打造,我们所看到的是一个令人眼花缭乱的视觉盛宴。手机只能照下它美艳的百分之一。真是每转一个弯便是一幅亮丽的美图。
2008年圣罗兰死后遗言把骨灰撒在马约儿园内。
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有的仙人掌树高逾数人,极为罕见
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很为别致的一个拐角处,权让表妹做个毛豆
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库图比亚清真寺,建于一千年前。全寺以红石和红砖砌成,长80米宽60米。
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路边经常有8、9岁的小孩卖擦手纸,一美元两小包。清真寺前,这位独脚老者也坐着轮椅在卖擦手纸。只是鲜有人问津。
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手机扫街时正好撞上老城内一个貌似开心的老者
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城内马车是除了走路外的唯一主要交通方式
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中午,吃一顿典型的摩洛哥主食:Tagine. 就像我们的?,开一瓶卡萨布兰卡冰镇啤酒,就着炖得烂烂的鸡肉或牛肉(千万不能提猪肉,会出人命的),摆在更烂的的蔬菜上,看着不咋地,吃起来却香气扑鼻,欲罢不能
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马拉喀什内城,像大部分阿拉伯古城,由城墙与外界隔绝,以抵御潜在的进犯者。
中世纪时,红城繁华无匹,土著柏柏尔人骁勇剽悍,很享受了一阵盛世,直到13世纪初强人优素福二世过世后才开始动荡。
内城里至今还留有当年商贾云集,贩夫走卒如过江之鲫般的热闹场面。
城内有许多条窄巷,两边布满各种店铺。游客们很容易迷失方向,半天走不出去。
最著名的是内城的广场:Jemaa el-Fnaa, 被联合国教科文组织列入世界遗产
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摩洛哥盛产甘桔,因气候干燥,多数相当甜。由于可以剥皮吃,无虑卫生与否,因此也很吃了一些,价格便宜得不好意思写出来呢!
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趁着人流稍减,赶紧捏一张
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灯具店
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一位颇为现代化的摩洛哥老爹,竟对我横眉冷对
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看着漏顶的蓬,不禁想到:下雨了怎么办?转而一想,那里干燥得很,怕什么!
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Jemaa el-Fnaa 市场,有商贾、卖艺的、玩蛇的,把诺大一个广场挤得水泄不通。人们也不喜欢被拍照
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导游说:“我们国家新闻、集社自由”。费了不少劲搞清楚,穆斯林自发组织集会反暴力,遣责早一天在新西兰发生的枪杀穆斯林的血腥事件
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这是一个令人莞尔的一个插曲:街头一人用中文说:“我爱中国”“我是布鲁斯.李”(李小龙家喻户晓)。接着他像模像样地出拳、踢腿,还哈、嘿地学李小龙打斗的模样。最后拿了10块第拉姆(一个美元)兴高采烈地走了,还不停地说着“我是布鲁斯.李”,“我爱中国”?
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巴希亚皇宫,建于19世纪,历7年,由当时马拉喀什的大宰相(Grand Vizier, 好像只能翻成大宰相)布.艾哈迈得带着4妻24妾居住。
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建筑以直线和拱门为主题
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该室为主人的一位妻子所住
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宫中的内庭,富有阿拉伯色彩
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内庭里,33位团友合影
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晚间,在内城和广场逛得精疲力尽,旅馆却在近4公里外。我们四人就在广场上雇了一辆马车。驭车的开口要200块第拉姆。同行的表妹夫说:你开玩笑吧!太贵了,一百!驭者说,mmm...好吧,就100吧。我心想:早知如此该说50第拉姆的。不过想想他们也不容易,100块第拉姆只值10美元,但是他却得靠它养家糊口呢!因此下车后又往他手里塞了一些纸币,不知道是第拉姆还是美元,反正心里踏实了一些。
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