Day 5 of the TMB. Perhaps we've used up our good luck, as today, in contrast to the clear skies of the past few days, we finally had the feared rainy weather. It was raining steadily when we left in the morning, and all of us were fully equipped with a bit concern. We had read online posts about the challenges of hiking in the rain, with clothes drenched and blisters forming on feet. The daily itinerary was set, and there was no possibility of delaying a day due to rain. So, what kind of situation would today bring?
The rain drizzled down, and there was a gloomy mist shrouding the mountains. Halfway up the slope, a group of cows grazed undeterred by the storm.
We crossed the meadow, trudging through the muddy path, and climbed the slippery trail. The photo below depicts an almost vertical cliff ascent, which is challenging even on a good weather day, let alone in the rain. It demanded an exceptional balance and leg strength to navigate.
Despite having several team members in their sixties, their physical fitness was truly impressive. Everyone was extremely cautious, taking each step with utmost caution. Finally every person safely traversed the most perilous section of the trail.
The weather was surprisingly kind to us. When we reached the first peak, the rain stopped, allowing us to capture this beautiful group photo.
As we crossed a small stream and ascended another peak, just when we were least prepared, there was a sudden twist of luck. Before us unfolded a magnificent scene: two majestic mountain ranges and a narrow valley. Amidst the swirling clouds, the rolling hills displayed beautiful curves in shades of golden and green. The expansive mountains and valleys extended towards the horizon. We all exclaimed in astonishment, deeply moved by the breathtaking view!
Hongbo was excited and couldn't stop shouting (yes, shouting), "Oh My Goodness! Oh My Goodness!! Oh My Goodness!!!" The other team members couldn't help but bursting into laughters.
Rene, who was from Quebec and was about to turn 72, was truly remarkable with his incredible energy and vitality. Regardless of how high or steep the mountain slopes were, Rene moved with remarkable ease, as if strolling on flat ground. When we navigated rocky terrain with caution, he bounced through like a mountain goat. It was not just his physical prowess that's astonishing, Rene was a sensitive soul who harbors the spirit of a seven-year-old child within him. He possessed a keen sense for the beauty of the world. Once, in front of a magnificent landscape, he shed tears and whispered, "It's so beautiful..."
Rene was also an experienced forestry expert, having worked for a government forestry department in Canada before retiring. He was responsible for tasks like forest disease and pest control and rationalized forestry planning. Along the way, he would pluck pine branches to show us, explaining the differences between three-needle pines and five-needle pines and identifying various pine tree species. He could glance at a pine tree and discern if it had any disease or pests. He would tell us about the wildflowers we encountered and their life cycles.
Rene had a large backyard in Canada's home, spanning over thirty acres. He spent most of his time working in his own forest, planting, pruning, and tending to the trees. As a result, he really maintained boundless energy throughout the year.
Gaetan was a polite and pleasant gentleman who has been a good colleague of Rene for over two decades. He was actually Rene's boss and has kept great relationship with Rene for years. Gaetan spoke great English, which allowed us to have wonderful conversations. He mentioned that his English was even better before retirement because he used to attend in professional conferences which required English and he had to read English publications as well. I guessed Gaetan was probablly in a leadership positon at a research institution. "Unfortunately, my English has deteriorated after retirement," Gaetan said, "but I still need to use it during multiple trips abroad." I responded him saying that this would give you another reason to travel more. Gaetan and Rene shared a friendship that goes beyond their work relationship - they were also travel buddies. They have had trips together to several countries in South America and a bunch of European countries. Gaetan said the TMB trek had long been on his bucket list, and he had looked forward to it for a long time.
This stone marker had an 'S' on one side, symbolizing Switzerland, and an 'I' on the other side, representing Italy. So, we had walked into the third country of the TMB, Italy.
If I were to describe the Alps in Italy today with one word, "magnificent" might be the most appropriate word that comes to mind. As an old Chinese poem goes, "My heart is moved by a towering mountain range; my vision is cleared, as a returning bird disappears. When I reach the utmost peak, I will look down on all the other mountains." Even in the rain and on this overcast day, the breathtaking grandeur of the myriad of rocks and valleys before us made us, the hikers, feel insignificant. Indeed, when facing this magnificent treasure bestowed upon us by the Creator, all we as humans could do was to appreciate nature with incredible awe, reverence and humility.
On the way down the mountain, we encountered another group of cows. These cows had white heads with two large fan-like ears, widely spaced eyes, and thick, innocent-looking noses. They were absolutely adorable!
At around 2 o'clock in the afternoon, we took a break at the foot of the mountain and had lunch. Nicolas gave us two options: we could walk for half an hour along the main road to the refuge, or we could take a three-hour trail that involved climbing 500 meters up another mountain. Nicholas promised this route would offer fantastic scenery. So, we split into two groups; one half headed to the refuge early, while the other half followed the him for another mountain ascent.
This trail followed the left side of the Aosta Valley, with the opposite side featuring another famous mountain range, the 3823-meter-high Mount Dolent in the Mont Blanc Massif. Mount Dolent is located at the tripoint of three countries - France, Switzerland, and Italy. It remains snow-covered year-round and hosts several ancient but receding glaciers. It has four irregular faces for climbers to ascend to the peak, with the Italian face being the easiest. As a result, it attracts many cross country skiing and climbing enthusiasts.
The trail winding through the mountain ridge was, in fact, a perfect hiking route. It offered wide-ranging vistas, allowing hikers to admire the glaciers and snow on the opposite mountain range, gaze at the layer upon layer of mountains and valleys, and take in the rolling mountain paths adorned in their autumnal green and yellow attire. With the rain having stopped, it was a rare and peaceful moment, incredibly enjoyable for all.
Surprisingly, there was also a refuge here, along with a helipad.
One of the favorite activities of our team was enjoying a good drink. At the end of each day of hiking, everyone liked to have a celebratory drink. Today, after 10 hours of trekking in the rain, covering 21 kilometers with a 1500-meter elevation gain, we were quite proud of our accomplishment. Norman generously treated everyone to a round of drinks, and we all happily raised our glasses to celebrate and reward ourselves.
Tonight, we stayed at the Hotel Restaurant Lavachey, located in the heart of the Val Ferret village at an elevation of 1642 meters. This place is popular due to its scenic surroundings, offering cross-country skiing trails with beautiful views of Mount Dolent and the surrounding mountains. It's also situated at the tripoint of summer hiking trails. The hotel has a rich history, dating back over a hundred years since its construction in the 19th century. It's a family-run establishment, and the restaurant is adorned with portraits of family members who have managed the hotel over the years, showcasing a wealth of history.
For dinner, we enjoyed deliciously grilled chicken and a variety of vegetables, not to mention the ever-present dessert that accompanied each meal.
The highlight of the evening, however, was the after-dinner entertainment: Grolla. Grolla is an Italian traditional drinking vessel, typically made of wood or ceramic, designed for sharing alcoholic beverages in social settings, such as coffee companions (a combination of coffee and spirits) or other drinks. The container features eight small spouts for a group of people to take turns sipping from. This is a popular social gathering tradition in the Aosta Valley and symbolizes friendship and communal get-togethers, often referred to as the "Friendship Pot."
The restaurant owner mixed wine and coffee inside this ceramic pot, lit it on the surface, and scraped sugar into the pot when the flame went out. Afterward, everyone took turns sipping from the eight spouts of this unique coffee companion. Experiencing such an cool event and learning about this foreign tradition for the first time, I couldn't help but marvel at how the TMB journey opened my eyes and expand the horizons!
Throughout the entire journey, we have several group photos, but this indoor group shot captured the friendliness of our group and the serenity of each individual. It preserved the relaxed and genuine happiness of that evening on digital film, creating a lasting memory for us to cherish.
The sixth day of our trek started with a refreshing autumn morning, and the clear blue sky seemed to hint at a day of unique beauty. After hiking up the mountain for over half an hour, we spotted a large herd of cows moving on the grassy slope ahead – a considerable number of cows! They had innocent and endearing expressions as they were herded down the hill by their human owners, destination unknown. It was truly a heartwarming sight.
The cheese we enjoy each day is the result of the efforts of these gentle and honest bovine friends. They consume grass, and in return, they contribute the delicious world-class food to human beings.
Along the trail, we encountered many small flags with the word "TORX" on them. We also came across runners wearing TORX sportswear. I guessed it might be a trail run, but it wasn't until the end of the day that I discovered the significance and grandeur of this event.
The gentleman in the red shirt was Claude, Danielle's husband. He was a physical therapist, tall, handsome, and had a gentle disposition. He carried a set of therapy straps with him and offered massages to fellow group members who may need them. He was incredibly caring and considerate. Together with his wife, Danielle, two of them were so mellow and showed great sense of humanity. During the hike, Claude and Danielle often picked up trash they come across on the trail and placed it in a garbage bag inside their backpack. They were meticulous and kind-hearted, displaying a genuine care for the environment, which was truly admirable.
Norman, another softspoken, gentle and amiable member of the group, reminded me of my father. Norman was Rene's neighbor, and his inclusion in the TMB journey alongside Rene was no coincidence. He was a frequent traveler himself. When I asked him about his most memorable place he has been to, he mentioned that he spent a year working in Iceland when he was younger. During that time, he did multiple hiking and cycling trips in Iceland, and the country's pristine wilderness and countless beautiful waterfalls left a profound impression on him. He was planning to return to Iceland next summer for a solo adventure that would involve camping and cycling. It was surprising to learn that the quiet and gentle Norman had such an adventurous spirit, and I told him I would be so interested to hear about his experiences in Iceland.
During a casual conversation, I asked Norman about the main differences between the French spoken by Quebeckers and that spoken by people in France. Norman explained that the French spoken in Quebec was more classical and traditional in its vocabulary, often resembling the language of the old generation more than that spoken in France. He briefly explained the history of Quebec and Canada, mentioning that Quebec was considered the foundational province of Canada. In the 16th to 18th centuries, it was first known as Canada, initially a French colony and the most prosperous colony of New France. Later, it became a British colony when the British Empire took control. In 1774, the British Parliament passed the Quebec Act, which ensured that the French language and culture in the Quebec region would not be threatened. It allowed Quebec to retain the French civil law and the entire legal system, guaranteed religious freedom, and preserved Roman Catholicism. However, over the next hundred years, due to changes in population dynamics, the influence of the English-speaking population grew significantly, weakening the French culture. The Catholic Church held significant control over various aspects of society, including government infiltration and dominance in education and welfare. It wasn't until the 1960s when Quebec experienced the Quiet Revolution (Révolution tranquille), which transformed the internal situation in Quebec and the control exerted by the Canadian federal government. This movement strengthened Quebec's sovereign control, allowing it to regain control of the education system, social welfare, and government structures. The Quiet Revolution had a profound and lasting impact, enabling the people of Quebec to maintain a relatively independent status in Canada, with their own education system and a strong pride in their French language. Norman proudly stated, "Our revolution was very successful; it restored the status of our French language and overthrew the domination of the Catholic Church." He explained that nowadays, very few people attended church in Quebec, many churches were dilapidated and abandoned, left to deteriorate over the years.
Naturally, Norman saw himself as a more French-oriented Quebecker. Interestingly, when I discussed similar topics with Marie, she being a younger person, expressed her fondness for Montreal's English-speaking environment, the city's unique vibes, diversity, openness, and the influence of English, making her identify more as a Quebecer with a leaning towards English culture.
Bertrand was a Frenchman with quite a few interesting stories. He joined our group after the first day of trekking, and at dinner, he shared many of his stories with us. He was the owner of a centuries-old mansion near Chamonix, which he renovated into a luxurious estate. Everyone playfully asked why he would stay with us in a five-person dormitory instead of enjoying his mansion at home. They even proposed that we could stay at his luxurious estate for the night. Bertrand had another mansion by the picturesque Mediterranean coast in Greece and he loved to spend a significant part of the year there. He was a low-key, wealthy man who loveed to share his life experiences but remains humble.
In his late sixties Bertrant was actually quite an adventurer when he was young. He loved climbing and skiing, having conquered numerous peaks in the Alps. Surprisingly, he even ran a marathon in Beijing! During the hike, he knew that he might need more time to climb mountaines, in order not to slow us down, he would often set out earlier during breaks. His pace might have been a bit slower, but it was steady and resolute.
It was only in the final day or two of the trek that I learned that Bertrand had paid for several days' wine for our group during dinner. I felt sorry for not being able to speak French, which limited my ability to communicate with him more freely. Otherwise, he would probably have had many interesting stories to share.
Guy, whose name was pronounced similarly to "Gee," was Marie's father. He was an energetic and cheerful man with a muscular build. Despite his imposing appearance, Guy was actually very friendly and not intimidating at all. He was a sports enthusiast who engaged in various sports and remained a baseball fan. He was particularly familiar with American college sports, including the intense rivalry between the University of North Carolina and Duke University. When I asked him how he became familiar with UNC-Chapel Hill, he simply replied, "It's easy, Michael Jordan!" Guy had a close bond with his daughter, Marie. They often took selfies, just as Hongbo and I took a daily selfie. Each morning, he would send his greetings to his wife and other friends who couldn't join them on their journey. Marie explained that because Guy had only one daughter, he raised her like both a son and a daughter, taking her hiking, camping, teaching her how to fix cars and appliances, and even build houses, and paint. Inevitably, Marie has become quite handy and was a down-to-earth young lady. Guy, indeed is such a lovable person!
At noon, we climbed to the peak of a mountain, arriving at a place with a 360-degree panoramic view. The scenery before us featured rugged, steep cliffs, towering mountains that seemed to go on forever, lush green forests, and golden fields, creating an unparalleled, breathtaking natural spectacle. It was a work of art greater than any masterpiece and more beautiful than any human-made creation. Nature's astounding craftsmanship made the landscape so enchanting that it nearly moved my heart to the point of tears...
These two group pictures captured our joy and exuberance, leaving us so many precious memories of our hiking adventure!
This breathtaking scenery inspired Hongbo's enthusiasm, and she joyfully sang an old Chinese song: "Beautiful Xisha Islands."
"Where do the birds fly to? The green mountains empty out towards people." Unfortuantely despite the endless beauty of the scenery, we all had to reluctantly leave.
Take a look at our lunch: healthy meals made by Nicholas, with delicious bread, rich cheese, fruit, and a well-known Alpine drink called Génépi. Génépi is made from a type of yellow flower that grows at an altitude of 3000 meters. The locals pick these flowers and use their unique recipe to turn them into a beverage that they carry with them. One day, while chatting with Nicholas, I asked him why the people at the refuge were so nice to him. He mischievously replied, "Because every time I chat with someone, I offer them Génépi." He let everyone had a taste of the Génépi he brought, and it had a kick somewhat akin to Chinese white liquor, quite invigorating.
In the vast expanse of these mountains, thousands of birds soar, but only a few tiny hikers were painstakingly exploring this beautiful land. To outsiders, hiking may seem like a tedious activity, but only when you are in the midst of it, when you've climbed up the hills, gasping for breath and sweating profusely, and then witness the grandeur of the rugged peaks and the untouched natural beauty, that you truly understand the deliciousness and sweetness in your heart. You would feel an incredible reverence and gratitude for our mother nature.
The town at the foot of the mountain was our destination for the evening - Courmayeur, Italy. Courmayeur is a famous Italian skiing and hot spring resort town located at the border of Italy and France. Courmayeur lies on the opposite side of Mont Blanc from Chamonix, France. There's a cable car that can take you directly to the mountaintop and across the border to Pointe Helbronner. A tunnel beneath the mountain connects Courmayeur and Chamonix, spanning 22 kilometers and taking just half an hour to drive through. For hikers not walking the entire TMB, this tunnel can be used to cross and complete half of the TMB route. In the photo below, Hongbo's hiking pole was pointing to the tunnel entrance.
During our descent, we encountered a refreshment station for an trail running event. It turned out that this station was set up for the trail runners we had run into on our hike earlier. Upon closer look, we were amazed to discover that this was a large-scale ultramarathon featuring four different races: TOR450, TOR330, TOR130, and TOR30. These races require participants to run various distances in these mountainous terrains, including 450 kilometers, 330 kilometers, 130 kilometers, and 30 kilometers. To put it in perspective, we hiked 170 kilometers over nine days, and the idea of running over three times that distance in such challenging mountainous terrain was insanely undelievable!
The TOR330, also known as the "Tor des Géants" (Tour of the Giants), covers a total distance of 330 kilometers with a cumulative elevation gain of 24,000 meters and has a cutoff time of 150 hours. The TOR450, which is even longer at 450 kilometers, features even greater difficulty, more hazardous sections, including proximity to glaciers, and an elevation gain of 32,000 meters. It is known as the "Tor des Glaciers" or the "Tour of the Glaciers" and has a cutoff time of 190 hours. It's considered one of the most challenging trail running in the world. Completing such an extreme and demanding athletic endeavor truly requires exceptional dedication and perseverance.
What's even more surprising was that we not only witnessed many accomplished TOR330 runners in Courmayeur but also on the final day of our journey we unexpectedly met a TOR450 participant who had come all the way from China. That's a story for later!
Today marked the closing time for the TOR330 race, and as we walked the last few kilometers to the finish line, the enthusiastic people of Courmayeur, fellow tourists, and the friends and families of the trail runners formed a cheering circle along the route. They greeted the passing runners with the most passionate cheers and encouragement. We, despite being hikers descending from the mountains, also experienced a moment of being treated like VIPs as we walked along this figurative red carpet.
Courmayeur is a picturesque town nestled in a valley surrounded by lush greenery. Located in the Aosta Valley of Italy, it shares a lot of similarities with Chamonix, France. It's renowned for its skiing in the winter and becomes a hub for summer outdoor sports, like ultramarathons, as well. Courmayeur is also aiming to establish itself as a world-famous destination for extreme sports, just like Chamonix with its UTMB.
Like Chamonix, Courmayeur benefits from its incredible natural surroundings. Just a few kilometers away, you can find a realm of stunning landscapes. Within the town itself, you can discover an oasis of tranquility that seems to exist apart from the bustle of the outside world.
Our group took a leisurely break here, and we savored the moment with a delightful treat: Italian Gelato.
The refuge tonight was situated halfway up the mountainside. In the morning, after the rain, the thin veil of light mist appeared like delicate ribbons, floating and enchanting, giving the scene a graceful and ethereal beauty.
Before we realized, we had already finished 6 days of TMB trek and we kept wondering what other surprises the next journey would bring us?
To be continued. Thanks for reading!
