我的第一故乡中国杭州有山有水风景秀丽,中国成语“湖光山色”就是赞美杭州之词。它出自宋代吴自牧的《梦梁录》:“杭城湖光山色之美,钟为人物,所以清奇杰特,为天下冠。” 而我的第二故乡美国加州同样有湖的风光和山的景色,还有海的浪花,也是美丽无比,百看不厌,百游不烦。今年夏天,我们全家难得聚在一起,懒得跑远路, 就在加州的清凉世界里游山玩水,观赏清奇杰特的加州湖光山色和海景。6月底出发国庆节回家,一周内去了伊尼欧国家森林(The Inyo National Forest), 优胜美地国家公园(Yosemite National Park), 太浩湖(Lake Tahoe),小城卡梅尔(Carmel)和大苏尔(Big Sur)。 这篇游记就来介绍那些地方,分3篇:山色篇,湖光篇和海景篇。
01 这次行动的路线图。
02 我们从 395号公路往北开,在小城 Lone Pine 前转进Whitney Portal Road,到达伊尼欧国家森林。
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03 - 05 到达伊尼欧国家森林在加利福尼亚州东部内华达山脉,森林覆盖面积7703平方公里。那里有世界上最古老的树 -- 古狐尾松(the Ancient Bristlecone Pine)。古狐尾松的树龄是 4839年岁。
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06 - 09 Inyo “伊尼欧”的意思是“Dwelling place of the great spirit" -- 伟大精神的居所”。从抽象到具体,小桥流水人家是一样都不少。
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10 – 12 伊尼欧国家森林北部的一部分( 6100平方公里)被保留作为荒野区(The John Muir Wilderness),它紧靠红杉和国王峡谷及优胜美地国家公园。
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13 下山后,我们在 Lone Pine小城的街上转了一圈。
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14 古老的酒吧。
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15 旅馆兼商店,门前有兵马俑站岗,周末还有乡间文艺表演。再往北开45分钟到达“米粒”大小的村庄 INDEPNDANCE投宿。旅馆老板还给我们讲了他的自身经历,非常有趣。
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次日早上去优胜美地国家公园。这是个世界遗产公园,占地 3000平方公里,园区有多种多样的植物和动物。地质特点是花岗质岩石。著名的景点如瀑布和HALF DOME都在中心。我们游了东边这部分,这边只有夏天才能进去。
16 – 17 进山就见勇敢者在攀岩。俺是杞人忧天,不敢多看。
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18 经过Tuolumne Meadows Visitor Center,直接开到Olmsted Point。
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19 这里可以看见HALF DOME的背面,同样美丽壮观。
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20 回头又见奇石。
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21 附近的 Tenaya Lake,湖水清澈,带个小船来划划一定很爽。
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22 还可以在山里露营,以后一定要安排时间来这里露营,拍日出日落照片。
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23 这是Pothole Dome。
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24 具有冒险潜质的小女又爬上去折腾了一番。
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25 - 30折腾完了优胜美地,我们去了太浩湖,在度假村住了3 天。走了2 个步行道(Hiking)。这个马尾瀑布和步行道(Horsetail Falls, Lake Tahoe)来回三英里,海拔6,100 - 6700英尺,升高600英尺,属中等难度。我们走了2个小时。晚春和初夏是近距离地接触美丽壮观的马尾瀑布最好的时间。
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31第一天走了个步行道,孩子们觉得不过瘾。第二天,又去走鹊峰步行道(Maggies Peaks Trail)。要从 Bayview Trailhead口子进。
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32 登上鹊峰可以俯瞰翡翠湾Emerald Bay。这是在山下观景台拍。
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33 这条古道也属于中等难度,3英里长。有南北两峰,南峰高 8699英尺,北峰8499英尺。
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37 - 38 第一英里有陡峭的台阶,可见周边的荒芜原野和石头阵。而从另一个交叉口上去,可以观看藏在高山森林中的花岗岩湖Granite Lake全景(我们没去)。
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39 在鹊峰俯瞰翡翠湾,真是美不胜收!
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40 我们走了3 个小时。下山后,先比比谁的脚最脏,谁被虫子咬得最多,再去吃饭,补充那失去的几滴血。
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