半夜看同学们蒸馒头,想起来面食有烤的,比如面包、火烧;烙的,比如松饼、煎饼;炸的,比如甜圈、焦圈。这些做法不论欧美、中近东、东南亚,世界各地都有,唯独中国人的面食很大一部分是蒸的:馒头、花卷、包子、蒸饼,五花八门,不计其数。比较之下其他国家的烹调中基本没有蒸的。有没有不清楚,反正我想不起来吃过。

从烹调技术的发展看,最原始的就是烤。只要有火就满足烤的条件了,区别只是火的大小、时间的长短。炙这个中国字说的就是烤。所谓的脍炙人口的脍,说的是切细小的肉,可以是鱼生(脍鲤、鲈脍,或者直接用鱼字旁的鲙),但更多的是说肉。炙字的象形就是肉在火上,就是明火烤。

进一步就是煮。这是需要有锅,向中国古代的鼎:

其实就是一口大锅。鼎足而立,下面生火烧煮。类似的还有比较小的青铜器鬲。

再进一步才能蒸,要有个炊具烧水,上面要有容器放食物用蒸汽加热。这样的炊具古代叫甑:

图中下面是鬲,上面就是甑。这个甑底部是有孔隙的,一般是圆孔,也有其他形状的:

类似现在的笼屉,只不过甑一般更高深一点。这些炊具都是先有陶制的,才有青铜的,所以使用的历史是非常久远的。

要想蒸面食,还要会发面,这又是一个技术进步。技术是古老的,可也不是那么简单,哪怕现在还是有很多同学没有完全掌握发面蒸面食的技术。

新年伊始,祝大家努力发扬光大我国的这一独门暗技,馒头白胖丰满,花卷扭捏作态,包子汁液流淌,那什么生活蒸蒸日上。

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