北非寻陶 --- 摩洛哥 Safi - Marrakesh

《世界陶瓷文化遗产概览》终于出版。为第一手资料我曾经踏遍天涯海角。在偏远的乡村联系到一位陶艺家或学者,进而结识了许多陶艺家朋友,甚至发现了原住民陶村。好多次我在飞机降落时举目无亲,数天后登机告别时却又与众多朋友依依不舍。
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靠近港口处的陶瓷工厂+市场是萨菲陶瓷的最佳展示处,可惜今天是星期天陶工们不上班,只能靠着壁画了解一下他们的制作过程,街边琳琅满目的产品也足够让游客赞叹不已。

离开萨菲我们朝东北方向来到了马拉喀什(Marrakesh),这是一个充满魅力的城市。首先映入眼帘的是一色儿的红墙房屋,如图中这栋我们今晚入住旅馆的小楼。据说在这个城市的居民是不能擅自改变房子外墙颜色的,也就是所谓的City code 吧!

旅馆的天花板设计很有特色。

我们到达是下午二、三点钟,外面气温高达摄氏四十度左右。耐福说当地人这段时间都躲在屋内,要等到太阳下山才出来活动。七点半左右我们来到了这里著名的德吉玛(Djemaa el-Fna)广场,它处于被粉红夯土护城墙的包围中,每晚都是人山人海,广场中央有各种音乐表演,还有杂技和闹剧演员的演出。周围的小吃摊的烧烤浓烟和食物香味紧紧地围绕着你,每位摊主都说自家的烤肉世界第一! 我们随便挑了一个空位坐下,烤肉还真的很美味。吃饱逛街,广场边弯弯曲曲的小巷满是商贩的摊位,转进去以后还真不容易转出来,人们在这里可以玩到第二天清晨三、四点  。这个广场是一千多年前处决犯人的地方,现代的它由于生动地还原了都市传奇和口述历史里的场景,被联合国教科文组织列为 “世界遗产的杰作”。最后一张照片虽然不怎么能看清楚,你也能感受到广场上的气氛。

马拉喀什是摩洛哥传统与现代融合得最好的地方,也是游客最多的城市,许多人把它当成探访摩洛哥的进口,我们却无意中把它放到了最后。再见了马拉喀什,明天我们就要离开摩洛哥,今生是否还会遇见?

(J)

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